Post by Gettershadow on Jul 8, 2012 18:46:42 GMT -5
Starting on a new Raideen model today. Its one of the older Bandai models not a Mechanic Collection that I picked up today at my local comic book store. Im going anime colors and Im using Testors model paint..I didnt prime it and Im just going with light thinned out coats at this point..giving me some trouble though because every time I come back with a second coat, the paint just thins out the first coat.. I may have to change my strategy.. any suggestions?
Post by Gettershadow on Jul 8, 2012 22:31:03 GMT -5
ok thats what I did wrong then, I didnt sand it.. I eventually got the paint to stick, i just had to start with a light coat and I let it dry alot longer before adding the second coat.. I figured it was too small to prime or sand.. I was wrong, it gave me a little bit of trouble but I got around it..its coming along good.. Ill post more as it progresses.
This is what I used to do when I was heavy into models.
1 - While the parts were on the sprues I would spray primer on both sides. 2 - cut the parts off then go back and touch up the places where the sprue cuts are and touch up with primer. 3 - even parts molded in color I would prime and then paint the appropriate color it adds a much nicer finish and get's rid of the translucency of thinner parts. Apply a finishing spray, this is where you can choose to go gloss or flat 4 - Assemble then touch up any places that need it then apply a finishing spray again. 5 - Also if there are any decals apply them before you apply the finishing spray.
Post by Gettershadow on Jul 9, 2012 15:08:58 GMT -5
yeah good advice from both of you.. its almost painted.. Im not all that happy with the gloss paint, I think flat would have been better with a coat of spray gloss.. but its still looking pretty good.
Post by Gettershadow on Jul 9, 2012 21:16:23 GMT -5
damn I should have used my flat acrylics.. this gloss sucks.. never really dries like tsamtsam said.. and I dont think it actually looks as good as flat with clear coat on it.. well thats what this cheap little model is all about .. practice for that big Mazinger thats on its way.. Im going flat on that one and then clear coating it..
As for the stickers and decals that come with those kits, such as the eyes and armor stripes... ...I never used them on my kits, I painted the detail instead.
Post by Gettershadow on Jul 10, 2012 19:03:30 GMT -5
yeah, this kit didnt come with any.. hes small, only a bit bigger than say, a Revoltech figure.. real light too.. hard to get ahold of these tiny parts and keep the glue off the joints.. a real b*tch!
Post by chachipower on Jul 10, 2012 22:17:17 GMT -5
You should try automotive touchup spray paint. Dries very quicka and you can buff it to a high gloss. Rustoleum automotive touch up spray paint is my favorite. They are not enamel so it dries quick
Post by Mr. Ginrai on Jul 11, 2012 11:35:22 GMT -5
I don't have reideen but I have around 30 or so of the kits from this line. Some are the original issues from 1981 and others are the reissues from 1998. I am looking forward to starting to build them.
Post by Gettershadow on Jul 11, 2012 15:38:01 GMT -5
yeah its hard and lightweight plastic.. kind cheap looking actually. I only cost me 12 bucks though so I put it together.. Its almost done Ill post pics when its ready.. looks pretty good so far.
Post by lexcars2007 on Jul 31, 2012 2:00:36 GMT -5
as 4 sanding, a Mr. Clean magic eraser works great, no sand scratches get seen, plus paint and glue sticks better...it also works great for buffing clear plastic that has old paint or fine scratches on it...I polished some old Hot wheels windows to a new finish while I was restoring them....
Post by lexcars2007 on Jul 31, 2012 2:03:33 GMT -5
Testor paint only works good if you add a hardner to it, then air brush it on...or just brush it. If you mix a hardner with it, use an old bottle of paint with an air tight lid, so the paint will last longer, No air, No cure !!!
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