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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Oct 29, 2015 20:46:33 GMT -5
Yes, orientation, that's why I suggested adding the stick piece.
PLA is tough. ABS is more friendly to us but I think commercially on a non-toy scale PLA is just more utilized/accepted.
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Post by nickgreat on Oct 30, 2015 10:38:44 GMT -5
Well I got the head back from the new vendor. Turns out he couldn't do it in friendly ABS due to temperature and the small size of the part; had it done in PLA instead. Doesn't look too bad actually, after loads of fine sanding. I've also already done the Mohawk an side cheeks using styrene sheets.  |
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Oct 30, 2015 16:55:29 GMT -5
How are you getting the styrene to stay so sharp and clean when you cut/shave/engrave it?
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Post by nickgreat on Oct 31, 2015 1:08:10 GMT -5
I don't know how to engrave; so the mohawk was done with 3 separate profiled cut styrene pieces glued together, then sanded again.
I generally use needle files to get the shape I want, then use grit 1000 sanding paper/sticks to get the smooth finish.
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Post by nickgreat on Nov 9, 2015 9:36:03 GMT -5
Update on WIP status. Wings and legs more or less done. Tested assembly to see proportions. On priming some of the parts, I noticed that they weren't as smooth as I wanted them to be. Back to more sanding; this I going to take a while..   |
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Post by Mechanical Flesh on Nov 9, 2015 11:13:01 GMT -5
On the other hand, it's starting to look gorgeous. I like the proportions. Looks like your work is paying off Nick  |
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Nov 9, 2015 22:38:24 GMT -5
Looks great. I think you should add styrene to both sides of each lower leg to "fill out" the dead space and make the leg look more uniform.
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Post by nickgreat on Nov 10, 2015 2:44:00 GMT -5
On the other hand, it's starting to look gorgeous. I like the proportions. Looks like your work is paying off Nick Thanks! Glad you like it so far. Looks great. I think you should add styrene to both sides of each lower leg to "fill out" the dead space and make the leg look more uniform. Do you mean how the cannon (lower leg section) looks skinny? I agree, but I am simply using lego pieces for that, and didn't want to thicken it for purely lazy reasons. I could stack styrene now, but it might affect the mobility of the joints. Let me look into it further. |
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Nov 10, 2015 7:18:14 GMT -5
Yes. If you stack the styrene but round the edges like the thigh end above and ankle top below those areas, it should not restrict the movement.
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Post by nickgreat on Nov 12, 2015 21:54:05 GMT -5
Yes. If you stack the styrene but round the edges like the thigh end above and ankle top below those areas, it should not restrict the movement. Tested on one side of the leg. As much as I like t he thicker canons, the last minute additions kinda makes the leg look segmented (not to mention loads of work). Think I'll just bite it and stick to the skinny legs.  Having problems with all the 3D printed parts at the moment too; noticed that after priming, even with all the prior sanding, all the flaws and roughness shows really badly. I'm was thinking of using more layers of primer to smoothen the surfaces before sanding. Really more time consuming than I expected and I'm actually contemplating giving up this project and just focus on my gokin collecting.  |
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Nov 12, 2015 23:00:08 GMT -5
I'd build it up a little thicker to be honest.
The roughness is always present. You need to do some tests with an acetone vapor bath to help you get around the resolution issues.
You have to be very careful though.
Anyways, you are in too deep to give up now. At the least, you should see this one through to completion. It's too good to stop.
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Post by nickgreat on Nov 17, 2015 9:33:36 GMT -5
I've listened to your advice and built up the legs thicker. Definitely looks better now; thanks!  The rough surfaces are really disheartening as it basically means that all those pieces I thought were complete, need to be further refined. I've read about the acetone bath, but I'm quite wary of chemicals. I'm also afraid that it might mess up the edges of the prints. There is some success to my priming/ sanding/ rinse repeat. It's painstaking and I've already run out of a can of primer. Need to drop by the hobby shop soon. |
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Nov 17, 2015 17:57:39 GMT -5
Great! Told you it would help. You could actually continue making it thicker as well. I'll try to draw what I am taking about.
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Post by admin1 aka Ed on Nov 30, 2015 13:41:12 GMT -5
Love the updates... don't give up. You allow me to couch potato model |
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Post by nickgreat on Dec 6, 2015 2:43:31 GMT -5
Kind of discouraging as this project is taking WAY longer than I expected. Most of the time being taken to smoothen the 3D printed pieces. In the meantime, not much of an update, but got the bow and arrow done in stryrene. Shields are 3D printed. I'm using magnets to hold them in place when held by the bot.  |
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Dec 6, 2015 9:36:57 GMT -5
Unless you have an insanely expensive printer or access to commercial grade stuff you will always have to deal with the stuff not being smooth. Everyone doing the same type of projects has to deal with that right now.
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Post by nickgreat on Dec 7, 2015 22:27:33 GMT -5
Yes, I understand that now. I did get this done commercially, but I just wasn't expecting the pits and dents on the prints to go as deep as it did. I had to epoxy fill several pieces just to get decent surfaces.
With what I've just experienced, 3D printing now seems reminiscent of the time when dot matrix printers arrived; took years before we got photo quality prints at the comfort of our home.
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Post by nickgreat on Dec 22, 2015 2:59:07 GMT -5
I've got most of the surfaces smoothened out now.
So due to the rainy season, I was not able to get any painting done.
And today, the sun comes up, and.... I run out of paint..
Sigh..
Need to pay a visit to my good old hobby shop again.
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Post by admin1 aka Ed on Dec 22, 2015 13:16:40 GMT -5
If you ever adjust proportions, I wonder if the horse's head needs to be more "goofy".
Your current work is superb. I was just wondering if an SD man, who gets a big head, would work with an SD horse, with a "goofy" big-head. At times I come in a full circle and say 'no' keep your design as is.
-Just was wondering if you sketched out other drafts with a bigger horse head.
E
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Post by nickgreat on Dec 23, 2015 11:04:49 GMT -5
A very valid point! I totally understand about what you mean by making a big horse head; Like you mentioned, if the bot has a large head, why not the horse?
Unfortunately, I didn't think of that then... and it's now already done (sans painting)... sigh..
At that time, I took reference from another SD horse bot (SD Gundam Sangokuden) and it didn't have a large head. On hindsight, I should have referenced from the ES Gokin Jeeg Pantheroid.
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