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Post by mannyD on Jan 22, 2007 22:56:00 GMT -5
tamiya and gunze sangyo won't harm any paints as long as you apply it at a thin coat with drying times intervals.. but tamiya and gunze are prone to becoming dull in just wiping.. ok tnx for the tip 45. so wud it be better if i use the real automotive paint stuff?
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Post by 45caliber on Jan 22, 2007 22:59:04 GMT -5
much better but i think you have to remove the original paint.. come 'on stripped it then you'll have the regrets of your life....
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Post by magengar on Jan 23, 2007 14:42:59 GMT -5
I guess you're right. Stripping would just be a personal chance I'd take with an old diecast, and Only if the stripping is really necessary. zozo-Magengar much better but i think you have to remove the original paint.. come 'on stripped it then you'll have the regrets of your life....
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Post by xiombarg on Jan 23, 2007 17:20:44 GMT -5
You probably don't have to completely strip the old paint off, but sanding with a fine sandpaper is a good idea so that you have enough texture for your new paint to bond to. Otherwise you might run into problems with it flaking off.
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Post by mayita on Jan 23, 2007 17:55:13 GMT -5
Hey JWM, here's a couple of things that are closer to completion than anything else I've got. I have some other projects going too, but are still just in parts. Both of these figures are composites of many different materials and parts. I did a lot of experimenting with both of these projects to see how well different materials would work, so I tend to think of these as learning experiences to help me in the future. This first one is missing a head and fists. It's fully poseable. ![](http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a51/xiombarg001/custom2.jpg) The upper human body is the only portion that is poseable. All the arms are poseable, and worked out even better than I expected. ![](http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a51/xiombarg001/custom1.jpg) it looks amazing more pictures man
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Post by mojacko on Jan 24, 2007 0:49:21 GMT -5
d@mn ur great!!!....awesome man!!! that centaur is really Cool!!! great work dude.....lurking for the next pix plssssssss
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Post by mannyD on Jan 24, 2007 6:25:05 GMT -5
You probably don't have to completely strip the old paint off, but sanding with a fine sandpaper is a good idea so that you have enough texture for your new paint to bond to. Otherwise you might run into problems with it flaking off. tnx for the tip xio. after light sanding, what kind of spray paint i can use? is automotive polyurethane paint ok? do i need to prime it first? tia bro
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Post by 45caliber on Jan 24, 2007 19:49:45 GMT -5
You probably don't have to completely strip the old paint off, but sanding with a fine sandpaper is a good idea so that you have enough texture for your new paint to bond to. Otherwise you might run into problems with it flaking off. tnx for the tip xio. after light sanding, what kind of spray paint i can use? is automotive polyurethane paint ok? do i need to prime it first? tia bro if you are going automotive paints.. those are lacquer based bro.. i think you have to strip the paint to bare metal.. light sanding method can be applied only if you are going to use acrylic or enamel spray paints (spray can).. i think using automotive paints over the robot's factory paint can ruined your precious gokin.. still i'm not sure but these are only base from my experience.. painting scooters and model kits
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Post by magengar on Jan 24, 2007 20:15:01 GMT -5
Automotive paint has such strong epoxy properties that could damage your gokins... the epoxies adhere so strongly they actually dig into the metal surface; probably very bad for diecasts and plastics, due to the chemical reaction.
zozo-Magengar
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Post by mannyD on Jan 24, 2007 23:32:18 GMT -5
ok tnx for the tip 45 and magengar. i've read somewhere auto polyurethane is acrylic base, is it ok to use if i dont strip the paint totally?
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Post by 45caliber on Jan 24, 2007 23:35:55 GMT -5
ok tnx for the tip 45 and magengar. i've read somewhere auto polyurethane is acrylic base, is it ok to use if i dont strip the paint totally? as i've told you.. better not to modify/repaint your SG-01.closed wing... dor me modification can be done only if i can restore or return it from it's original state... i hate drilling holes.. cutting parts.. and so on.. what i did to my getter was.. i can easily bring him back easily from his "stock" appearance
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Post by mannix143 on Jan 31, 2007 5:39:08 GMT -5
since we are on the paint topic ![;)](http://lemonstre.fr/robot-japan/smileys/wink.png) whats the differrence of acrylic and enamel
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Post by nightstalker on Jan 31, 2007 6:15:20 GMT -5
One is a solvent based paint the other a water based paint. Both can be clear coated wiht any urethane grade paint for durability and longevity.
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Post by mojacko on Jan 31, 2007 7:46:56 GMT -5
does using solvent base paint harmful for the plastics???
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Post by magengar on Jan 31, 2007 11:46:42 GMT -5
I hope not. I'd like to know the same, and for soft vinyl too? zozo-Magengar does using solvent base paint harmful for the plastics???
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Post by xiombarg on Jan 31, 2007 12:03:25 GMT -5
The term enamel is typically used to denote a glossy oil based paint, although there is no actual "enamel" in any store bought paint. The term enamel comes from a process of melting glass powder and applying it to ceramic or metal, which then has a very glossy, often colorful, hard surface that is highly resistent to chemicals and wear. It was used a lot in the early 20th century, but now only in expensive high end products in general.
Acrylic is a binding polymer typically used in fast drying "latex" paints (but once again, there is no latex in latex paints), although not all latex paints use acrylic as the binder. Latex paints may also use PVA, vinyl, or other plastics, but paints with 100% acylic binder are usually the best.
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Post by mannix143 on Feb 3, 2007 5:48:31 GMT -5
thanks xiombarg, so you think its much better to use acrylic on jumbo machinders instead of enamel? since arcylic has vinyl attributes, it will stick to it more?
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Post by hellric on Feb 4, 2007 5:06:28 GMT -5
I use acrylic paints on all surfaces, either metal, resin or plastic, it's easier to work with (just add water as medium) and don't give you headache because of odors. On some resin you have to wash parts with soap to remove the fat medium used for casting. It helps to use a primer so the paint won't chip when you hold the model, and always seal them after with varnish. You can use mat varnish on most parts and some gloss varnish for eyes, metallic surfaces as swords, guns, etc It's also important to use good quality brushes, believe me it's a very good investment.
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Post by mannix143 on Feb 4, 2007 5:12:24 GMT -5
thanks hellric, what aboyt paint markers>? any brand that you suggest?
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Post by hellric on Feb 4, 2007 11:22:22 GMT -5
I use only Games Workshop range (paints, primer and inks), because it's the only one I can buy easily. Also Vallejo paints have good reputation too, and they are cheaper. There are also paints from Reaper Miniatures and Rackham miniatures, these are new ranges of acrylic paints, should be good but I have no experience nor feedback with them.
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