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Post by DragonCaesar on Dec 8, 2008 13:57:23 GMT -5
Ok folks, I really want this model to turn out the best it can possibly be, and because of my inexperience I will need your help to make sure it happens.
I built a PG Wing Zero a few years ago, it turned out pretty decent I would say except I broke a couple of pieces and I made the mistake of spraying a matte coat of spray paint on both sides of the part trees which made the parts fit together too tightly and lead to breaking.... *sigh*
Ok anyway, I've ordered my master grade and it should be here soon... here are my questions
What is the best time to panel line my model?
Is a Micron 005 Black Marker good to panel line with?
What is the best way to cover the white cracking on the colord parts that sometimes results from cutting the part from the tree?
If I chose to put a matte finish on this model, when would be the best time to do it? Also what kind of paint would be best to use, one that wouldn't stick and such when handling the model with my hands after it has dried...
And for those who have built one, is the WZ missing any colors that I would need to paint on?
Thank you!
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 8, 2008 14:48:47 GMT -5
If I wanted or had the time to put into a kit, MG or PG or whatever, I would take the parts off the sprue (trees), sand it, fill it and then paint it first with the color, then line it by using the dry brush technique, take a brush, dip it in paint, run the brush through a piece paper to take out the excess paint then run the brush along the impressions, or the "dry" air brush technique, which is to shoot the panel lines with the airbrush, if you overspray, that ok, then go over the whole thing with a light dusting of the overall color, this will leave you with a weathered look to your kits. .005 micron is ok, but more "amatuer" hour stuff, it can smudge or simply not last or break down.
As a general rule, if you are going for the best, you should paint it regardless of plastic molding color.
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 8, 2008 14:53:18 GMT -5
how far down the rabbit hole do you wish to go?
are you planning on repainting the entire model or just where it needs it the most?
Depending on how far you intend to take the painting to depends on weather you have or need the right supplies. If your going for a basic paint job (only painting what needs to be.) then i suggest you get some color coded gundam markers.
if you cut the spru before it actually connects to the part first, then using a pair of flat edged nippers, cut the part off of the sprue as close as possible, then use a sharp xacto knife to get rid of any excess (careful not to cut yourself). you shouldnt have any whiting plastic. If you do manage to end up with whitening of the plastic, you can use gundam markers or any acrylic or enamel paint to touch up. I also suggest sanding the leftover spru parts but thats a bit more envolving.
I have the MG wing but not built, from what i can see, it needs nothing beyond panel lining, as there arent a lot of different colors to WZ in the first place.
Microns are fine, however, they will create a very dark panel line if your ok with that. if your going to go the basic route and dont plan on repainting the entire model, i would do the panel lines first whil the par is still in the part tree. Its much easier to handel that way. you can use a clean eraser or a qtip with alchol to clean mistakes. allow it to sit for a day before working on it any further as the oil from your hands can create annoying smudge marks. once you have applied panel lines, built the model, touch up paint, applied decals??, you can then apply the top coat of your desire to completed model.
let me know if you plan on doing more then this, like filling in seem lines, sanding, and a full paint job, for more tips. Panel lining is applied differently in these applications.
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Post by DragonCaesar on Dec 8, 2008 15:13:11 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice thus far!
I don't plan on painting the model, it will be my only gundam model and I don't want to invest money in any paints as around my area they are hard to find and expensive.
I want to go as far as, panel lines and making the model look as clean as possible by touching up any white cracking.
The flat finish I MAY want to do depending on how much it would cost and how hard it is to find. If I could possibly go out to walmart and be able to buy a spray paint flat finish for cheap that would be good for me...
So you say the micron will get me very dark panel lines hm? I see how that might look kind of off or at least very n00bish once the kit has been finished.
What is a better option for panel lining then? I only want to do the marker method as I don't have much model building expierence and I don't want to mess this up too bad. LOL
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Post by parrothead on Dec 8, 2008 15:18:15 GMT -5
Well if you choose to use the Micron pen, and no paint you could try this. Fill the line as usual, then take a needle, like a sewing needle, or even an Exacto blade and scrape the line. This will scrape away some of the darker ink, leaving a sort of faded look. After that spray a matte coat(sp) and there you go.
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 8, 2008 15:30:57 GMT -5
really micron is the most reliable to use if using this method aside from gundam line of panel lining pins. They have a washed out gray that is far lighter then the microns. but it smudges easier, clear coat will fix that. in fact you can go the real amature way and panel line while still on the tree then top coat it, allow to cure, then build model and touch up arears. BTW you can get some good paint at a decent price here www.hobbywave.com the site also has a link to www.bakuc.com/ this has lots of modeling information and tuturials plus plenty of other peoples work to look at!
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 8, 2008 15:57:50 GMT -5
Gundam modeling is a lot of work, but if you do it right, it is very rewarding. Painting the model all the way is way to go, especially to get rid of the darn flashing that happens when I you cut the parts of the sprue. I don't mean to contradict Mechamaster, (Different Stroke/Different Folks) but I find the opposite work much better when removing the parts. I use the Tamiya clippers, and cut fairly close to the parts, but not too close, since I've clipped too much in the past. Then, I would use my dremel on low and take the rest of it out. Sand and fill. Done.
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 8, 2008 16:06:16 GMT -5
yeah those dremels are wonderful but a bit costly, thinking about getting one myself would save a lot of work. I was told to use one of those three sided nail filers that the ladies use for their nails. Havent tried it myself though but stole one from the wife lol supposedly it has all three grits needed for a smooth shiny surface.
ps......... you can use nail polish to paint your gundams.........shhhhhhhhh dont tell anyone lol
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Post by DragonCaesar on Dec 8, 2008 17:23:49 GMT -5
Those links are great, thanks!
Question tho, in the one video where the guy applies the finishing coat the model... isn't that a very bad idea? Because of course the coat will set, but only in the position the model is in when it is sprayed... as you as you move any parts.... any area that were covered before will show thru, also the coat will get into the cracks along the joints and stuff won't it?
And by the way that finishing coat, what was it anyway? A gloss or matte finish or something?
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 8, 2008 21:14:46 GMT -5
This is true, but in most gundam models, the joints are usually hiden behind armor. However, I wouldnt recomend doing it this way, I would coat in sections. I believe he is using clear coat. Also go to youtube for more tutorials.
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 9, 2008 13:33:37 GMT -5
yeah those dremels are wonderful but a bit costly, thinking about getting one myself would save a lot of work. I was told to use one of those three sided nail filers that the ladies use for their nails. Havent tried it myself though but stole one from the wife lol supposedly it has all three grits needed for a smooth shiny surface. ps......... you can use nail polish to paint your gundams.........shhhhhhhhh dont tell anyone lol LOL, I use a cordless dremel, it cost less than a kit, $40 at your local Wally World. You can buy a nail file like that at a hobby shop for about $5, you don't need to take your wife's (which means you won't be sleeping on the couch when caught) or have one that has some femine name on it ;D , not that there is anything necessarily wrong with that...LOL Yes, you CAN use nail polish, of course, it is an enamel or acrylic paint, but I would not recommend using the brush that comes with it. Also to maintain my peace at home, use Gunzo or Mr Color instead...LOL or you just use the clear to make your figures' joints tighter! LOL
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Post by DragonCaesar on Dec 9, 2008 14:32:11 GMT -5
-sry-the-space-bar-on-my-keyboard-broke anyway...i-came-across-this gordonator.com/2008/03/23/wing-gundam-zero/#more-186to-me-i-love-the-way-his-wing-zero-looks... i-don't-think-he-did-anything-beyond-basic-panel-lines he-even-used-the-stickers-and-i-think-it-looks-great can-anyone-tell-me-if-they-spot-anything-extra-this-person-did-to-there-kit-because-i-think-i-want-to-almost-copy-that-look-completely another-question-about-displaying... would-it-be-a-bad-idea-to-display-zero-with-its-wings-completely-spread-out-as-the-weight-would-cause-the-joint-over-time-to-eventually-wear-out-and-it-would-become-completely-loose-overtime?
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 10, 2008 10:36:27 GMT -5
first, get that thing fixed!! lol
well, its kind of hard to tell but it could be the work of his camera. It does look like it has a flat coat to it for the plastic is much shinier then what is pictured. he also did panel lineing on the wings and had (all those black etches are panel lines as well) looks like a micron may have been used for that. Also his decals look pretty solid so he may have used decal setter and sealer. Of course this could all be a trick of the eye and he may just be a result of his camera and added effects. But if you just tried to do this out of box it wouldnt look bad but look very plasticy.
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Post by DragonCaesar on Dec 10, 2008 12:27:10 GMT -5
lol sorry it's working now... it just needed some new batteries
Well then I suppose if I do add the flat coat near the end it might be the best idea then... to get rid of that *plastic* shine...
But other then that I should be able to copy his look right out of the box hm?
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 10, 2008 13:24:06 GMT -5
It does look plasticky and the lining needs to thinned out a little, looks like lining done on a HCM Pro or similar. Decals are not symmetrical: i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/gordon008/blog/wingzero09.jpg Overall the model is okay, certainly would not win and awards, but it is ok. If you are trying to get the "toy" look, then this is not a bad way to do it. I think that zero would look better with some weathering to add to the realism of the model. If you are trying to get your model to look like the pictures on the box. then you will have to paint, everything. The master builders they use to make the models for the photos has unlimited resources and a lot of skill. I think you need to start with realistic expectations and then work on getting that as you go. I practice building with simply $10 kits and then work on the ones I really want.
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 10, 2008 13:51:25 GMT -5
yes once you go pro youll never want to go back to simple OOB! but for begginer start with cheap grade kits, though the most you can really mess up is over sanding something, since paint can always be removed in most cases (oh and i guess you can cement the wrong parts together which can be a real pain!!) lol
silver i am curious to see some of your work!
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 10, 2008 15:06:22 GMT -5
As soons as your Zeta gets over here, give me 3 months or so (lol) and you can see it. LOL, Most of my models are in boxes, most have unfortunately, been broken, since it we moved and movers are A-holes. I recently built a Tetsujin 28, $10 model, but I haven't uploaded the pics to Photobucket, yet. Painted the whole thing Mica Blue, looks awesome with metallic colors, I used Tamiya model car paint vs the usual Mr. Color, but I wanted a gloss effect. My Airbrush/compressor is in the garage collecting dust, that's why I wanted to start building again.
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 10, 2008 15:39:20 GMT -5
lol well according to fed ex you wont get it till monday unfortunately. well buddy get to uploading, we need some modelin love on here.
Tell me about the moving thing, tons of my models broke due to move (but more so due to my imporper packaging)
My first real deal kit will be Gebra Tetra, he has been primed sitting in my basement for the past month though. Everything before that was pretty basic, only painting where i felt it needed it and, didnt bother filling in seems, panel lined with micron.........hell first gundams were done in markers and felt tip pens, not a pretty site!! lol
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 10, 2008 15:48:18 GMT -5
I understand completely. My first was a Freedom Strike 1:60. I built car models, etc before, built a lot of them in fact, but Gundams are a bit more work. Filling the seams with putty, sanding, lining, etc. Before that I had a practice 1:144 Zero, using markers as well, I can do without remembering that. LOL. Yes, inclement weather on the east coast is delaying shipment. I'm debating whether I will be busting out the airbrush for the Zeta, I bought $60 worth of Mr Color cans and Tamiya white putty yesterday in anticipation. I may line and weather it using my airbrush, but I think the major stuff will be spray cans. If you ask me they should mold Gundam models using an off-white color. That way it will be much easier to paint! LOL ;D
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Post by mechamasterj on Dec 10, 2008 16:27:21 GMT -5
I may actually post my early attempts at gundam building when i used to use the old tooth and nail to remove parts from the sprue lol.
Well im not sure what the ratio of repainters to OOBs are but I would assume that the majority of gundam kit buyers dont reapint thier kits. Of course it would make it a lot easier for us that do if they molded it in wihite or grey, wouldnt have to worry about priming so much.
I got an AB that hasnt seen any action yet, gotta find the time to bust it out. well since you got that many cans you might as well use them! but i think the AB would be the best way to go.
OM did we just jack this guy's thread lol sorry!
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