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Post by prostockjohn on Nov 12, 2010 12:36:45 GMT -5
I've been using SuperGlue to repair broken plastics, like for example Altus' headpieces had cracked in half. is that best or do you guys have other glues or epoxy's that you reccomend? Do you spray anything into a guy with stiff joints, WD40...?
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Post by KingboyD on Nov 12, 2010 14:22:53 GMT -5
I've used super glues too in the past - just don't overdo it so it won't come out of the seams. It seems to last and be sturdy with these plastics they used. I haven't really experienced stiff joints, but I have had to use WD40 twice to loosen stuck screws.
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Post by prostockjohn on Nov 23, 2010 13:59:59 GMT -5
how about for cast parts? I was moving Diamos ST and his leg snapped clean off right at the body line.
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Post by KingboyD on Nov 23, 2010 14:06:58 GMT -5
Oh man, that's not good. I've tried to fix metal parts with appropriate adhesives in the past with little success. Got a photo of the break / parts?
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Post by repairtechjon on Nov 23, 2010 22:05:22 GMT -5
Cast stuff will repair well with 2 part metal or liquid epoxies. Same stuff you'd use on engine cases etc. Liquids usually work best, though JB Weld types can work for a big area. Just need to have dremel, or files to smooth out work afterword. Superglue on metal, not too good.
Also surprising what gorilla glue(resin types) will hold. Just have to clamp well until set up and dry.
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Post by godaikincolector74 on Nov 24, 2010 0:48:20 GMT -5
IMO liquid epox RTjon mentioned is best option. I like repairing vintage items when they need it. Perhaps persevering a piece of vintage toy history for future generations to enjoy. I mean these robots often being anywhere form 25 to 35 years old really is not old in an antique collectors mindset, but to me it is well on its way, and if well persevered and complete with a solid box, by the time they are say 50 years old, they will be that much higher in value, even in some repaired cases if done correctly....
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Post by magengar on Nov 24, 2010 1:07:45 GMT -5
I've often repaired small plastic parts with LockTite glue,
and had no problems with it since. If a little bit of LockTite
seeps through the seams, I let it fully dry and then I use
320-grit sandpaper to gently smooth it to the surface...
...I'd end up repainting the part to coat the repair.
Knock on wood, I haven't encountered tight joints YET.
But I am not quite sure about WD40... it's icky when it dries
and when it catches dirt and dust it becomes The most Hideous
man-made Creature I've ever seen.
Greasy or oily stuff like that could only create more friction
when dry, and will increase the chance of the toy part
breaking in That WD40'ed area fromheat generated by the friction.
Whether it's Die-cast, or Plastic toy parts... I still do not know what
would be the best lubricant for them. But Do avoid vaseline... that's
the Worst "lube" of all.
zozo-Magengar
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Post by prostockjohn on Nov 24, 2010 12:09:50 GMT -5
Epoxy or JB Weld sound like a good idea. I don't have a big pile of bux into him, and he can be displayed no problem, but the leg has snapped off. I'll try to take a pic this weekend.
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Post by sal7 on Jan 9, 2011 2:13:50 GMT -5
i'm using super glue for plastic and also araldite rapid epoxy for diecast glue. if wd doesnt work try using sewing machine oil (singer oil)
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Post by prostockjohn on Jan 10, 2011 10:13:59 GMT -5
Since the last time I posted in this thread I've swapped the head for a robot, the usual one has all the horns intact, other has none.
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Post by admin1 aka Ed on Jan 10, 2011 23:11:10 GMT -5
Help me understand why you would need joint lube. Normally the screw can be loosened.
If there is corrosion, thats a different story.
E
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Post by Erik Sjoen on Jan 11, 2011 2:13:59 GMT -5
Help me understand why you would need joint lube. Normally the screw can be loosened. If there is corrosion, thats a different story. E That could totally be taken out of context..  |
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Post by sketcher on Jan 11, 2011 13:18:35 GMT -5
HAHAHAHAHAHA!
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