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Post by 1oldrobot on Jul 1, 2012 4:13:45 GMT -5
Hi. every now and then people post on how to fix what on jumbos. i may have mentioned a great capillary agent made by 3M. unfortunately, it has a short shelf life, is ultra expensive, and you need the expensive proprietary 3M dispenser.
i work with different plastics a lot when i do art and polyethylene has a specific look to it. it makes colors look so juicy, so i like working with it, but gluing is always a problem.
i picked up some of this-
it works! really well! if you call TAP, they will lie and tell you that it is not available. they keep it in the back room for custom work and box building. i got a big order of it from my local TAP and i was skeptical at first.
they hide it because motorcycle guys were repairing gas tanks with it, and gas fumes go BOOM! especially when stoked with a torch.
i had a bum daimos leg and a torn great mazinger arm joint groove. i did the water test and applied as instructed in the video.
i softened the body of GM under hot water in my sink and reattached the arm.
it worked!
if you try to get this and cant, let me know.
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Post by bourno on Jul 1, 2012 13:55:56 GMT -5
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Post by 1oldrobot on Jul 1, 2012 15:46:19 GMT -5
thanks for posting the link. i didnt even try their site since i always get the runaround in there, and they recently cancelled a lot of their better bonding agents, including their acrylic instant bond agent (best glue ever for making a superior strength acrylic bond).
no shelf life indicated on my packaging of the TAP poly-weld. it was the first thing i checked.
youll be fine with loc-tite for your danguard ace foot repair. but its the same type of bond as JB Kwik, which is not really a true fusion, and if it were to be played with it would eventually come off. for display, its fine for eternity.
but you cant use JB Kwik or Loc-Tite in tight fitting areas since it will separate under the stress of fitting arms and legs back into their joints. it will also come right off under hot water when the PE changes shape.
the flame treatment is an added step, but is worth it. i hope this helps a lot of people out there with great pieces that need otherwise simple repairs that have been a challenge to address.
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Post by magengar on Jul 2, 2012 18:11:07 GMT -5
Drop the " s" from the prefix https so the link will be clickable... here goes... www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_poly_weld_adhesive/435;D Thanks for these glue tips and resources. I often wonder what type of glue would work Safely (and best) on jumbos, vinyl figures, and other plastics... Since I only have just One item (the actual robot toy I'm repairing) I would have to test the glue on a piece of scrap material which is the same as the actual robot toy's material so that I don't damage the toy with the wrong type of glue chemical.  zozo-mag |
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Post by yarddog on Jul 2, 2012 21:45:59 GMT -5
Hello. I am brand new to the site and new to Jumbos. My first came today, and I wondered if there is a proper glue to reapply lifting stickers. Anyone have good advice for this? Thanks.
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Post by rodman75 on Jul 2, 2012 22:22:06 GMT -5
Welcome Yarddog,
Which Jumbo did you start off your collection with? I used a dap of super glue on a lifted sticker on my Disco D-17. It worked fine but I'm sure there are several other board members that could suggest even better products. Also, there are reproduction stickers that could be used to make your Jumbo look like new. Good luck!
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Post by bourno on Jul 2, 2012 22:53:40 GMT -5
Welcome to the RJ forum. I have used Dap weldwood contact cement on some stickers for holding them down again.
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Post by yarddog on Jul 3, 2012 3:01:56 GMT -5
Thank you guys. I picked up a Shogun Raydeen. It's in real good condition, but some of the stickers need securing. I've seen the repro stickers and will probably get them, I'm afraid of destroying the plastic with glue. I've seen unexpected chemical reactions before and wouldn't want to use the wrong thing and see that happen.
I've read your forums for awhile now and wonder where you find the rare ones in such good condition. Do you have any leads in Japan besides the Yahoo auctions. I would love to get the Kamen v3 in better condition than the ones I see there.
Thank you both for the advice.
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Post by magengar on Jul 3, 2012 15:14:28 GMT -5
Avoid the Krazy Glue types...... that stuff will scab hard right through the sticker, as well as eat into the jumbo's plastic surface. As rodman75 stated, your best best would be to use reproduction stickers for your jumbo. There are several RJers here who make very good quality repro stickers. You'll find them anywhere in this Jumbos section; they'll be glad to help you with anything regarding Jumbos. Last-not-least, Welcome to RobotJapan!  zozo-mag |
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Post by 1oldrobot on Jul 3, 2012 15:28:03 GMT -5
hi, yarddog! welcome to the forum, and a habit to guarantee missed mortgage payments. within no time, youll know how to scour the web like others here. it gets to be like fishing, but polyethylene fish that shoot missiles! awesome stuff.
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Post by yarddog on Jul 3, 2012 20:02:19 GMT -5
Wow, I'm home. You guys are so helpful and friendly. I've avoided forums in the past due to the unfriendly nature of so many. I've been seeing this site for years due to my robot obsession, I regret not joining sooner.
I experienced the destruction from Krazy glue once, that's why I looked for answers here, before I did something stupid. I can't get over how awesome you guys are. I was a kid in the early seventies and my first exposure to robots was Giant Robo. I've loved robots ever since. Thanks for the warm welcome.
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Post by magengar on Jul 4, 2012 16:00:42 GMT -5
LOL..... bro, there's a "first time" for everything. And, in this hobby, when it comes to doing Customizations, it becomes a Learning experience to grow with... Although mistakes are costly (if you're working on an actual specimen), you learn from those mistakes so the next time your work turns out much better every time. As for trying out chemicals such as glue, paint, whatever, it's best to try samples on some beat-up old toy found in the trash, if the old toy is made of the same material or close enough at least you can risk doing Trials-n-Errors on the old toy and not on the actual specimen. The same can apply to jumbos...... try samples on a large plastic toy baseball bat ( those huge toy bats you see sold at local
pharmacies in their toy sections)....... them bats are blowmolded with the same material as that of these jumbo Machinders. This will give you ideas on how techniques will look on a finished specimen. If you can't get a toy bat, try with empty shampoo bottles. zozo-mag |
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Post by bourno on Jun 11, 2013 22:07:02 GMT -5
bump for Acroray
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Post by AcroRay on Jun 11, 2013 22:47:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the bump!
With regard to decals: For model rockets that are plastic, and some which have PE plastics, I've used Elmers glue stick and they've survived nicely. If you put the glue on the paper half and let it 'set up' for a minute, it generates a more perminant adhesion (much like 3M spray-mount).
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Post by faulkners2 on Jun 12, 2013 11:32:11 GMT -5
I like the Elmer's glue for reattaching stickers also. It adheres nicely and is easy to get off if you decide to replace the sticker later.
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