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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Jun 18, 2013 20:46:49 GMT -5
I think he means more fine because you want to just finesse it a bit so it still looks neat. Not kill the surface completely.
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Post by magengar on Jun 19, 2013 1:45:40 GMT -5
More fine, more fine... if you can find any sandpaper
that is finer than 400 or 600 grit, go for it.
zozo-mag
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Post by Derik on Jun 23, 2013 10:19:09 GMT -5
Autobody supply shops sell grit as fine as 2000.
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Jun 23, 2013 13:34:08 GMT -5
Most hobby places go extremely high grit, and also sometimes you will catch a really high grit at lowes/home depot/etc.
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Post by AcroRay on Jul 4, 2013 12:47:13 GMT -5
Is there any glue or tape proven that can fix a broken Dragun cape? Maybe some clear all-weather tape or red duct tape on the underside, and super-glue migrated into the cracks? Is there a specific glue that works for vinyl like this?
Alternately, has anyone experience in a replacement sheet material of the same grade & thickness? Other than a sheet of Styrene plastic, cut to shape, heated to form and spray-painted red, I can't think of any other option.
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jul 4, 2013 12:53:19 GMT -5
Loctite super glue professional grade, blue tube. I used it once to glue a cracked Mazinga missle lancher and have used it on everything ever since. Incredible stuff!
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Post by AcroRay on Jul 4, 2013 13:03:29 GMT -5
Really? Trip to Lowes today! :-) Have you used it on a Dragun cape?
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jul 4, 2013 13:21:18 GMT -5
No, but I have used it on about everything else. Including a small crack in a Rodan wing for a friend of mine. Stuff's great.
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Post by AcroRay on Jul 4, 2013 14:38:02 GMT -5
That sounds very promising!
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jul 4, 2013 14:55:08 GMT -5
Ok, just snapped a corner off of a junker Dragun's cape. No worries, it was already cracked. Glued it back on... Holding great!
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Post by AcroRay on Jul 4, 2013 15:01:56 GMT -5
Whoo hoo! Excellent!
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Post by AcroRay on Jul 6, 2013 13:54:45 GMT -5
Well, I got a larger 'pro' bottle - the one without the fancy grippie surfaces. It did a good job of repairing some cracks. But it lacks flexibility, and broke where the cape needed to flex around Dragun's shoulders. I used transparent Frost King weather seal tape behind the cracked areas, which helped support the repairs. Luckily, most of the repairs were behind him.
Now - Would anyone have, and be willing to share, a pattern for the lightning bolts on Dragun's legs? Thanks!
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jul 6, 2013 14:03:54 GMT -5
Willohio should have the entire sticker sheet. I think I paid $15 for mine on ebay and it came with both types of leg stickers.
Sorry I didn't try the loctite on the bend, never even thought to try it there.
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Post by AcroRay on Jul 6, 2013 21:24:34 GMT -5
Oh, no problem. The glue is great, though. I used it to do some extensive repair to my Bandai Macross Frontier VF-25s.
I have not doubt about Will's decals. I just wanted to try to keep my costs down. I made repros of the chest & lap decals. Its waist just needed some black touch up. All that leaves in the leg decal.
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Post by Derik on Jul 7, 2013 15:59:02 GMT -5
Williams decals are really good quality. They are thicker than the others and are exact fit. Cant give Will enough props for his help with mine  |
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Post by Derik on Jul 7, 2013 16:06:01 GMT -5
Just figured out a great way to remove old sticker residue. Gorilla tape. Peel the top layer of paper sticker off of the jumbo and the residual paper and adhesive will remain. Take gorilla tape and press it down over area hard then smooth it down with top of your fingernail then rip it off. Takes a few rinse and repeats but after a few minutes most will be gone. Anything small remaining should come off with finger nail. Old adhesive residue loves this stuff. It wants to go home with it. Wouldn't work well on most other surface as it would pull of paint probably and such but an unprinted area of polyethylene works great. That just F-ing Rules!!!! |
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Post by AcroRay on Jul 11, 2013 14:51:46 GMT -5
I tried it on a Dragun that had water-damaged decals from what I suspect was some long past afternoon out in the yard in the rain. It didn't work very well on his chest decals. I ended up having to take the Goo Gone route for those.
The belly decal was good enough to keep. The lap decals just peeled off rather easily.
But the Gorilla Tape didn't do the trick in that instance.
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Post by MazinKaiserSKL666 on Jul 12, 2013 16:05:46 GMT -5
Yeah it failed on my Daimos. I was able to use the tape to entirely remove the paper decals part but the underlying glue was so old it had become like a white film that seemed to have become a part of the polythylene almost. Goo Gone to the rescue. But tape alone has worked on 3 of my other resto jobs. Goo Gone is great but I use it as a last resort. I prefer not to hit vintage toys of any kind with chemicals (particularly pertoleum based ones) unless absolutely necessary. Besides Goo Gone I dont think there is any one alternative technique that will work 100% of the time. But the more weapons you have in your arsenal the better.
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Post by wakeupheavy on Jul 12, 2013 22:30:09 GMT -5
WD-40 works great on getting that film off. Doesn't harm the poly at all. I cleaned up my LJN Voltron with it, and it really brightened up the plastic. I thought it would leave a greasy residue, but it didn't.
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Post by Derik on Jul 22, 2013 6:51:23 GMT -5
That stuffs great for everything!!!
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