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Post by bowhntr66 on Jun 24, 2013 19:59:16 GMT -5
I do like it so far, it's just slow going. I think what's bothering me the most is the corners. I would have liked to have had pristine, straight, smooth ones. But, in the comics, the Sanctuary ended up destroyed. Mine is the weathered, rebuilt version! Lol!! The edges/corners aren't bad, they're just not razor straight, the way I'd like them.
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 24, 2013 20:11:34 GMT -5
Well, you could "cover" the outside with thin plastic, like plexi-glass, and then paint it. That will give you the stright edges you want.  }D |
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jun 24, 2013 20:57:19 GMT -5
I've been thinking of doing that for the inside wall. Give it the smooth drywall look. I think I'm being to critical (I believe I mentioned anal once before), Once it's painted it should be ok. Besides, I want it to look like stone, not marble.
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 24, 2013 22:31:01 GMT -5
I think it was magengar that posted a Youtube video where some guy was using styrofoam to make a mock-up metal part. After he made it, he brushed it with something, it looked like resin or even paint, and when that dried it gave the styrofoam a completely smooth appearance. I'm gonna try to find those videos and post the link here. }D |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 24, 2013 22:37:10 GMT -5
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jun 25, 2013 5:38:49 GMT -5
Yep, mentioned that a little bit a go. I think another solution might be Bondo body putty. I'll keep experimenting...
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Post by magengar on Jun 25, 2013 10:55:21 GMT -5
Keep in mind, when coating Styrofoam with stuff
such as resins and/or seal-type coats, some chemicals
contain acids that will dissolve the Styrofoam
in the wink of an eye.
Your best bet is to try a sample with a scrap piece
of foam BEFORE applying coats to the real sculpture.
zozo-mag
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 25, 2013 21:19:21 GMT -5
Yeah. Solvents and styrofoam do not get along at all.  }D |
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jun 26, 2013 4:29:23 GMT -5
The glue method seems to be working well. I'm still playing with that. It's been drying for 2 days now, I should be able to get back to it tonight after work.
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Post by magengar on Jun 26, 2013 8:11:55 GMT -5
I once plopped a gob of Great Stuff insulation foam, and coated it with thin layers of Plasti-Dip (spray type) and after several cured layers of the Plasti-Dip the gob felt like a hard vinyl object!  zozo-mag |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 26, 2013 10:20:30 GMT -5
Wow, I'm surprised the Plasti-Dip didn't dissolve the foam!
}D
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Post by magengar on Jun 26, 2013 10:33:18 GMT -5
HINTS: Great Stuff insulation will handle it. Also, those long large bendable rod spongy kiddie pool toys you see sold at convenience stores (here at Stewart's Shops, and in 7-11s in your region) and Dollar stores... ...that kind of foam will also resist Plasti-Dip. Ordinary packaging foam will not.As for the black spongy insulating foam used for wrapping around pipes, That kind of foam might also handle Plasti-Dip. Never tried that foam, but it might be possible. EVA foam, and foam rubber mouse-pads, should also hold up to Plasti-Dip. ----------------------- Also, beware: Plastic Wood dap glue is very caustic, it will Definitely dissolve foam, And burn your skin on contact. zozo-mag Wow, I'm surprised the Plasti-Dip didn't dissolve the foam! }D |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 26, 2013 15:16:55 GMT -5
I'm thinking about buying a couple of those handheld foam cutting tools shown in the videos, but the electric controllers for them are pretty expensive!!!  }D |
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Post by magengar on Jun 28, 2013 3:45:53 GMT -5
Well, in That case, you can put an old trashed computer to use: its POWER SUPPLY! ...grab an old (WORKING!) power supply from a computer ATX case and follow the instructions as demonstrated in this video. The guy in the video is using a hand-held home-made cutter. You can make your own hand-held cutter, or a Table-top cutter. The cutter uses a nichrome wire... but, you can also use a high E6 steel electric guitar string*** (if you know any musician friends, they can spare you an old E6 string) After your home-made ATX power supply is rigged and ready to go, connect either Positive or Negative end (with an alligator clip) to one end of the cutting wire, and connect either Positive or Negative end (also, with an alligator clip) to the other end of the cutting wire. Turn the power supply On, and DO NOT TOUCH THE CUTTING WIRE WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!....that cutting wire will get so hot it will burn right through you. It will cut through foam quick as butter! =========== Another power supply alternative... a Dimmer switch, with an AC power supply! ============================= You can also use the ATX power supply, or the Dimmer switch, connected to this home-made table-top foam cutter here... ... this guy here used a nichrome wire (sold at RadioShack). But, you can still use an electric guitar string. He also shows you how to build a Table-top foam cutter. ============ For sculpting into foam, you can use a hand-held foam cutter sold at your local hobby store. And, for sculpting detail into foam, you can use an old soldering iron. Hope these tips help. zozo-mag I'm thinking about buying a couple of those handheld foam cutting tools shown in the videos, but the electric controllers for them are pretty expensive!!! }D |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 28, 2013 10:02:45 GMT -5
Woah! Thanks bro! I'll be making my own foam cutters soon!!! }D |
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Post by magengar on Jun 28, 2013 10:42:29 GMT -5
I'm thinking about making a table-top foam cutter,
like the one shown in that "foam factory" video tutorial there.
I've got an old computer sitting in my closet, I'll
pull the power supply from it and rig the connections.
Just gotta be CAREFUL to rig it right, or risk electrocution
and house fire.
And once the cutter's made and in use, NEVER leave it on Unattended,
especially if you have kids and pets around.
NEVER touch the cutting wire while in use!
After usage, Unplug it and store it away.
Reminder: be sure the cutting wire is TIGHT for clean straight cuts.
Also, it would be best to use the peg-hole board for the table-top
foam cutter's platform... that way you can use a "guide" made of a piece of
2x4 with nails embedded (use a grinder to trim the flat nail head)
embed the nails wide apart and lined up with the distant peg holes
in a manner that will keep the 2x4 straight, then insert the nails
through the peg holes on the cutter platform so your 2x4 lies flat and straight
across on the cutter's surface... it will be your guide to make smooth
straight cuts through the foam, as you slide the foam across the
cutter's platform.
To make Angled cuts up to 45 degree angles:
Pivot the cutting arm so it leans, and Re-attach the cutting
wire so it looks tilted at an angle...
Then re-connect your power supply to the cutting wire.
zozo-mag
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jun 30, 2013 4:46:39 GMT -5
 Still rough, but moving right along... |
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jun 30, 2013 4:48:40 GMT -5
 Double checking scale. |
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Post by magengar on Jun 30, 2013 7:52:44 GMT -5
Wow, that Santuary is starting to look really nice, now you need a Raideen and a Combattler chogokin to go with that Danguard Ace. Keep it up! zozo-mag |
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Post by bowhntr66 on Jun 30, 2013 8:01:12 GMT -5
Thank you sir!! I actually have the Trinity just waiting to go on it.
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