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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 8, 2013 1:47:47 GMT -5
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 8, 2013 15:42:06 GMT -5
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Post by Chen on Aug 8, 2013 15:44:48 GMT -5
Nice! I love the Wing designs especially Heavyarms and Sandrock.
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 9, 2013 1:02:52 GMT -5
Hell yea. Finished the MG QAN [T]. Love it.
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Post by 00silvergt on Aug 9, 2013 12:39:18 GMT -5
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Post by 00silvergt on Aug 9, 2013 12:41:11 GMT -5
Hell yea. Finished the MG QAN [T]. Love it. One of my favorite suits...I love the Qan[T]. Do you paint any of your kits? Your straight builds are cool and your photography skills are real good as well.
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 10, 2013 13:03:10 GMT -5
00silvergt - Nice builds man! And no, I only do minor paint like detailing for thrusters, lining etc. etc. So far, the kits have been accurate in coloring, so there's been no need for the main bodies.
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Post by 00silvergt on Aug 12, 2013 12:32:23 GMT -5
00silvergt - Nice builds man! And no, I only do minor paint like detailing for thrusters, lining etc. etc. So far, the kits have been accurate in coloring, so there's been no need for the main bodies. Yeah, I know, but I paint, even it if it is molded in color. Why? 1. Don't like the look of plastic. 2. It will get rid of the nub mark traces. 3. Did I mention I hate the look plastic? >
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Post by greengetterguy on Aug 12, 2013 13:25:13 GMT -5
All good points 00. And done right like you have, the painted kits do look better of course.
I myself don't paint because I need a good paint booth first so we don't breath the paint fume. And thanks to awesome Bandai engineering, the plastic looks good especially for person like me, and I'm now back logged with models....
My brother in law sent me two more MG kits just last week...
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Post by 00silvergt on Aug 12, 2013 16:29:57 GMT -5
All good points 00. And done right like you have, the painted kits do look better of course. I myself don't paint because I need a good paint booth first so we don't breath the paint fume. And thanks to awesome Bandai engineering, the plastic looks good especially for person like me, and I'm now back logged with models.... My brother in law sent me two more MG kits just last week... There's a few things to point about about your concerns about painting. Use Acrylic paint, most are non-toxic, like Vallejo. Take a big box and use that catch the overspray. Lay out newspapers and sit the box on that. Since with airbrushing, you really should paint on the level, use a chair and a folding table. If you are still concerned about coating your lungs with Acrylic, shoot with a dust mask, $1 for 10 at Harbor Freight. Acrylic cleans and thins with water, preferably distilled water. Plastic is plastic, it is polystyrene with a dye, which means the color will be consistent and in some cases swirled where the paint was poured. If you have cast resin, you will notice this very quickly. With that said, as Kuma have shown, you can get pretty good kits by leaving it alone or without painting. I have friends in the hobby that use Tamiya polish or wax to polish the plastic which comes out pretty good. However, if you want to wear, customize, or even make it look less like toys and add realism and detract from scale, then you will have to paint. If you have the skills, you can brush it, there are some of my friends who you can't tell if they airbrushed or brushed. I am 1. Too lazy. 2. impatient. 3. Only have so-so skills in brushing. I will brush little parts or pieces, but never large parts. So I airbrush. Spray cans are cool, but as you said, it can be toxic and flammable, and can leave a mess. I started out using Mr. Color Spray paints and Tamiya. I can never control the flow, it almost always came out too thick and I definitely made a mess. Tamiya and Mr. Color uses Lacquer as the vehicle for their paints, this is some nasty stuff. Further it is thinned by lacquer cleaner which is even nastier than the paint. Water based Acrylic paint, like Tamiya Acrylic, Model Master Acryl and Vallejo uses an Acrylic pigment with water or alcohol as a vehicle. Like Lacquer, Acrylic paints dry quickly. Most have additives that are self-leveling, just like Mr. Color. Vallejo and Tamiya have a good gamut of colors for Gunpla. The other advantage of airbrushing is the ability to mix your own color. If the color you want is not available, you use what paint you have and tint and shade the paint or add other colors to make your own paint. I use Future Acrylic Floor wax to seal my paint job to protect it. It is sold as Pledge "Future Shine" in the US and you can get it at Wal-Mart for $6 for 27oz...that should last you for about 100 or so kits. (In comparison, a spray over coat can cost you $8 for 5oz.)You can cut it with Simple Green and you will get a shine that looks wet even after it dries. I cut mine with Matte Varnish for a flat finish. I think for the most part, Gunpla should be flat, like tanks. If you are still concerned about fumes, you can get a inexpensive paint booth on eBay for less than $100. I paid $35, it uses the same filters as your furnace, just cut it to size. It will suck the overspray and redirect it to a window or vent. The filter cost me $16 at Lowes and can be cut to 5 or so filters. Or make your own using a computer fan, like the booths on eBay or whichever fan you want that is inverted to suck and not blow. You can get a large laundry bucket as the body and use the same filter to filter out the overspray. As for backlogged? LOL, don't get me started. The MG Zeta Kit that I bought, I think from Kuma from 5 years ago, still sealed. I am at least 30 kits backlogged and 10 of those kits are MG's. I do planes as well and I have a BSG Colonial Viper that I have to build with the photo-etched parts and the electronics that I had to make from scratch. I am doing something similar to an older Cosmo Zero 1/60 scale as well. The Cosmo zero is built, fiber optics installed,I just need the time to get the electronics (lights and sound, again made from scratch - the engine sound was recorded off a real F-16) together. I may do one that's remote controlled as well. Gundams are not as easy to light up or get sound, at 1/144, MG's can be modded and of course PG's already have provisions. I hope that helps, happy Pla-ing.
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Post by greengetterguy on Aug 12, 2013 17:56:40 GMT -5
Yay~ 00 Thanks for all the VERY helpful infos!!
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Post by 00silvergt on Aug 14, 2013 11:53:50 GMT -5
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 15, 2013 21:19:49 GMT -5
00silvergt - Nice builds man! And no, I only do minor paint like detailing for thrusters, lining etc. etc. So far, the kits have been accurate in coloring, so there's been no need for the main bodies. Yeah, I know, but I paint, even it if it is molded in color. Why? 1. Don't like the look of plastic. 2. It will get rid of the nub mark traces. 3. Did I mention I hate the look plastic? > That's cool. I'm not going to start b/c of your personal reasons for doing it, but it's cool that you do it. And dude... your G Gundam looks WAY better than the pics on the box. I seriously stayed away from it after looking at the promo pics of the toy on the box. Lots of stuff to build. Tomorrow I'm going to do the 1/100 EXIA Avalanche while I'm at work. I'm preeeeetty sure it'll be done by tomorrow night so over the weekend the hope is to get MG Aegis done too. Throughout the next week, for mah' burrrrr'day, I'm getting: - Gundam XM-X1 Crossbone Gundam Full clothes MG 1/100 Scale - Bandai Hobby MG 1/100 Sinanju Stein Ver. Ka Model Kit Action Figure - Bandai Hobby Nu Gundam Version Ka "Char's Counterattack" 1/100 - Master Grade - Bandai /100 MG Gundam Astray Red Frame Lowe Guele's Customize Mobile Suit MBF-PO2KAI - Bandai Hobby Gundam Age-1 Titus 1/100-Master Grade - Gundam 00 1/100 SERAVEE GUNDAM - Gundam 00: 03 GN-003 Gundam Kyrios 1/100 Scale Model Kit - Gundam 00: GN-002 Gundam Dynames 1/100 Scale Model Kit The goal is to finish before 2014, lol.
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Post by 00silvergt on Aug 16, 2013 12:15:35 GMT -5
Yeah, I know, but I paint, even it if it is molded in color. Why? 1. Don't like the look of plastic. 2. It will get rid of the nub mark traces. 3. Did I mention I hate the look plastic? > That's cool. I'm not going to start b/c of your personal reasons for doing it, but it's cool that you do it. And dude... your G Gundam looks WAY better than the pics on the box. I seriously stayed away from it after looking at the promo pics of the toy on the box. Lots of stuff to build. Tomorrow I'm going to do the 1/100 EXIA Avalanche while I'm at work. I'm preeeeetty sure it'll be done by tomorrow night so over the weekend the hope is to get MG Aegis done too. Throughout the next week, for mah' burrrrr'day, I'm getting: - Gundam XM-X1 Crossbone Gundam Full clothes MG 1/100 Scale - Bandai Hobby MG 1/100 Sinanju Stein Ver. Ka Model Kit Action Figure - Bandai Hobby Nu Gundam Version Ka "Char's Counterattack" 1/100 - Master Grade - Bandai /100 MG Gundam Astray Red Frame Lowe Guele's Customize Mobile Suit MBF-PO2KAI - Bandai Hobby Gundam Age-1 Titus 1/100-Master Grade - Gundam 00 1/100 SERAVEE GUNDAM - Gundam 00: 03 GN-003 Gundam Kyrios 1/100 Scale Model Kit - Gundam 00: GN-002 Gundam Dynames 1/100 Scale Model Kit The goal is to finish before 2014, lol. Thanks, again. The G is the 1/144. I have the non-grade 1/60 with the LED, but I'm backlogged, so that will have to wait. Those are all great kits. Have fun.
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 17, 2013 3:59:21 GMT -5
EXIA Avalance
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 18, 2013 1:44:21 GMT -5
Finished up detailing Aegis tonight:
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 18, 2013 10:28:37 GMT -5
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 18, 2013 20:24:58 GMT -5
Finished up Crossbone. Get your Yargh on.
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Post by KumaStyle.com (TJ) on Aug 18, 2013 21:00:43 GMT -5
This is probably one of the most cool gimmicks I've seen on a Gundam yet. Skullomania-face boxing gloves.
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Post by greengetterguy on Aug 18, 2013 21:12:20 GMT -5
NICE!!
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