|
|
Post by crpdiablos on Aug 31, 2013 10:49:53 GMT -5
Ok, well, I have two Popy Golions that would be mint in box except for the yellowing. I have decided to go ahead and do the peroxide wash. I first started with a yellowed lion head from an ebay auction just to see if the peroxide would affect the paint. YES!!! It took the shine right off fter two hrs in the solution. Granted the white is like new but the red is dull. Lesson learned, so what I am doing now is washing the original Popy Lions. I have masked off all the paint so it won't be affected. I put it in the solution for about 2 hrs yesterday. I removed and washed the parts. The yellow isn't completely gone yet but the paint has been unaffected. I am now doing a remask and I am going to put them in a Peroxide 40 solution today. I will post the results. This is very time consuming doing the masking. You have to use a razor blade right up against the plastic so if youre not familiar with masking things off and trimming with a blade I would advise not to attempt this as you will probably cut into the plastic. I have been doing this sort of masking and trimming in the composites industry for 13 yrs so its a no brainer for me. Stay tuned
|
|
|
|
Post by crpdiablos on Aug 31, 2013 23:37:52 GMT -5
Well 8 hrs later and everything is white again. I am trying to post pics but something is up with image shack. Anyway, it works very well you just have to be very careful. I ran some tests on another lion I have, I have a bunch so it was worth the test because if this peroxide touches chrome you can kiss it goodbye, if it sits on paint too long it will definately fade it. I fully masked and bagged the parts to keep the solution on just the white. I found soaking the parts kept the sun from doing its job and the parts were not getting any whiter. I removed the parts from the conatainers and put them directly in the sun light. The peroxide is like a paste so it sticks to the parts. I brushed more solution on every half hr and got super white . I don't know what's up with image shack but I can't access any of my phoots and it says both my accounts are invalid. Hopefully this gets fixed so I can do before and after
|
|
|
|
Post by crpdiablos on Sept 1, 2013 3:38:02 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by southpawdragon on Sept 2, 2013 8:26:52 GMT -5
Im planning to sell my Macross/Robotech: Yamato 1/60 VF-1A Hikaru Variable Fighter, version 1. But there is yellowing on its wing. Do you think i should even bother whitening it. Its only one wing. Thats yellowed. Would it lessen the value. Knowing its been whitened. I will practice first on something else
|
|
|
|
Post by crpdiablos on Sept 2, 2013 10:29:17 GMT -5
I think the yellowing will lesson the value thats been my experience ately. I did a lot of research on this before I tried it and found the process doesn't have long term affects at least that is what I have found browsing the web. A guy did a test on some parts and evaluated them over a 5 yr period with no adverse affects
|
|
|
|
Post by zman on Sept 3, 2013 13:46:34 GMT -5
Nice work there  I have vintage Dancougar that has some yellowing  I wish there was an easier way, is there? |
|
|
|
Post by bourno on Sept 3, 2013 15:31:10 GMT -5
Which peroxide are you using as you mentioned it being like a paste? The peroxide I bought was like liquid water.
|
|
|
|
Post by crpdiablos on Sept 4, 2013 6:32:26 GMT -5
This was the safest way to not damage the lions. My tests showed that after two hrs the paint and chrome were affected the chrome more so than the paint. I went to a beauty supply store and bought peroxide 40 they also sell peroxide 30 25 etc. I don't recall the brand but they all come in a pasty/liquid form that's thick enough stay in place on the parts. I checked the parts again tonight and they are even whiter. I thoroughly washed the pieces when I finished so I no its not left over peroxide but definately whiter than when I washed them. When I washed them thre areas that were hidden from sunlight like the insides of the jaws were slightly whiter than the parts I washed but now the parts I washed are just as white. I am surprised at how white these got. They look brand new
|
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Ginrai on Sept 4, 2013 8:45:16 GMT -5
I bought the same peroxide that you did, just haven't had a chance to test it yet. So you just applied the paste and put in the sun? You didn't immerse in anything?
|
|
|
|
Post by Lejam on Sept 4, 2013 9:38:25 GMT -5
My SOC GX-04 Spacer will get this lifting soon.
Thanks for sharing your process Crpdiablos.
|
|
|
|
Post by crpdiablos on Sept 4, 2013 9:41:45 GMT -5
When I emersed it the yellowing went away by about 50% but wasn't passing that point until I removed the parts from the buckets they were in and allowed the sun to hit them directly. I think having them emersed and in small bucket kept the sunlight from reaching the parts. I couldn't even see the pieces through the peroxide. I had them soaking for 6 hrs and there was still yellowing. Once I removed them and let the sun hit them they were completely white in 2 hrs. I checked them every 30 minutes and reapplied peroxided with paint brush
|
|
|
|
Post by GEN1AUTOBOT on Sept 24, 2013 18:00:48 GMT -5
I did this treatment a few months back on Micromaster Countdown. The initial effects were stupendous. Needless to say, as mentioned earlier, the effects don't last. My white rocket has yellowed again but not as much as it previously was prior to the treatment and it wasn't even allowed near sunlight. I read somewhere that once the process has been completed it might be a good idea to apply some sort of UV protective coating on the item. This is great if you are going to keep the toy and not sell it later. I plan on keeping mine so I just might try this treatment again and then spray it with some sort of sealer/clear-coat.
|
|
