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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 24, 2014 0:32:44 GMT -5
Ok Guys here's another Popy Mystery to me. I think I may have seen this one before. The Tail on the yellow lion has more lines in it and the mount at the shoulder is grooved. Anyway stew in that for a minute while I create a new account with image crap..I just went to upload some pics to the album I've used for years and they say my free 30 day trial is over and to upgrade. I guese 30 dayS is 10 years in image shack time
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 24, 2014 2:30:19 GMT -5
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Apr 24, 2014 9:37:08 GMT -5
I am almost positive that I may have a yellow lion or two with a tail like that - but don't hold me to it yet - I will confirm when I get home. The black lion parts are interesting. I will check those as well but don't think I have those.
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 24, 2014 18:26:16 GMT -5
So Im looking over the other differences. The blue and yellow lions teeth are sharper than my other popy versions as well. I believe this to be an early unit with some design flaws that were later changed. The lines around the tail would have weaked the tail making it easier to break. If you look at the pics of the arm mount, that groove leave a tiny lip whch looks like it was breaking off and denting along the edge when dismounting the arm which leads me to believe this was an early run with design flaws. Also the arm pivot is a lot smaller than the other units I have. This was probably beefed up as well to prevent breakage. That arm mount though is a dead giveaway. It is flawed for sure. Im looking at the piece and the plastic on the outer edge is dented and chipped. It makes sense that they changed that and made it a flat solid piece
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Apr 24, 2014 20:40:08 GMT -5
Just checked for you - on all my godaikin golions, matchbox voltrons (Japan and Taiwan) and any other yellow lion I have, mine all have the standard tail with the larger middle segment. I do not have the multi segmented tail like you do.
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 24, 2014 21:08:16 GMT -5
Huh, maybe someone will chime in with some more info
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 24, 2014 21:39:20 GMT -5
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Apr 24, 2014 21:49:02 GMT -5
Hmmm...teeth look the same as normal popy/Golion to me...subtle differences in person are probably more noticeable as you said. I will check my stickers, but I agree with yours being longer. The rusting wings could be a different metal, but maybe are the same - popy and godaikin stuff definitely rusts, we just don't see it too often. I had a voltes that I "saved" from a death in a musty basement that was mint externally but rusted completely on the inside...
Overall until we get more info I would definitely say it's an early production piece.
As an extreme, if you have really strange markings that you haven't noticed yet I would venture to say test market piece or salesman sample...but that may be pushing it too early. Do you have any history on the piece? Did you get it from the states or Japan?
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 24, 2014 22:01:47 GMT -5
I got it from the states. I will contact the seller.Look at the pins on the wings closely. They are rounded on the one end and rivet style on the opposite so they were hollow and punched to keep them from falling out I guess. All the ones I have are made from aluminum I believe and are solid with the nail head end being flat. Here are a couple pics side by side with my other popy so you can see the difference in the bottom teeth. I should have been a little cleare it seems that the bottom teeth on the black yellow and blue are slightly shorter and sharper   |
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Post by dudleydrulert on Apr 25, 2014 6:28:20 GMT -5
I'd like to help you, but my general familiarity with GB-36 variants is vastly inferior to yours. Looks like an interesting find though!
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Post by repairtechjon on Apr 25, 2014 17:52:12 GMT -5
Most likely an early version of the standard Popy. Interesting, and sort of logical, as you say, all the things you point out are weaknesses, that would have gotten running changes.
I've also had at least 3 boxed chrome elbow Popy sets, with one in hand now, which I can compare.
Sorry no pics yet, but starting from the top pics you put up in the last post:
Red Lion- the hindquarters rear section stickers (black/chrome/blue stripe) on yours are longer, going down the angles of the red body section ends.
Mine and others I remember, the stickers only as long as the flat middle area, and do not continue down the angled parts of the red body.
Black Lion- Shouder pivots are gold, but have no groove around the lip. Solid round mount.
Sharp, slimmer, smaller teeth are pretty normal for the ones i've had.
The red wings on mine have no markings, letters, or numbers, but do have the standard solid pivot pins with solid flat ends, vs. your hollow roll pins.
This makes sense that yours is earlier process, before swithing to more logical, and professional looking solid pins, and the tools to install them.
Yellow Lion- mine only has the 3 segment lines in the tail, with a smooth area through the middle, where yours has a couple extra segment lines. Logical that they phased the tail to less segments quickly after production started, since the extra segments leave a real weakness, that would let that tail break easier with any kid's play.
Teeth on all lions are the slim, sharp, design on mine.
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Post by xtrlowz75 on Apr 26, 2014 1:20:00 GMT -5
Heavy segmented tail comes from the mid 80s Lionbots, sometimes found on the V-belt versions. My cousin has 1 and his tail is segmented on both yellow and blue lions. The V-belt and Diamond-belt Lionbots have all sorts of odd variances. The rest of that yellow lion even with super sharp teeth looks like an early Popy, or Godaikin Golion. The less sharper teeth appear to be later Golion or late 80s to current Lionbots. Looks like someone just repaired/replaced the tail.
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 26, 2014 9:01:33 GMT -5
I wonder if the lionbots had the original molds for that tail. Maybe popy sold off their flawed molds and that how we got the lionbots..lol..well it could be if that tail was distinct to lionbot.I think this had its original tail. Im pretty sure this guy has never been disassembled until I got him. All the paint is great and the stickers were on solid. I wanted to pull the jaws off for whitening and fix one of the neck stickers so I decided to try my luck at removing the gb36 stickers.Never done this before on a restoration, whitening was done with jaws on body. What a mistake,I believe no matter how careful you are, you will damage the sticker removing it. My dumbass thought Id use a heat gun and got the sticker part way up which already showed damage like a stretching of the clear part but when I hit the heat to it the foil and plastic pulled the old shrinky dink move. Now Im trying to get stickers made. That little booboo has me doing something I've always wanted to do but never done. A full restoration minus paint. I'm gonna rechrome everything if possible, and have all new stickers made. I have tossed around the idea but messing up the sticker on this guy really hurt and I gotta fix him right.
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Post by xtrlowz75 on Apr 26, 2014 16:37:02 GMT -5
But I have to say, repairing a few lions myself, it is very easy to repair the tail without taking it apart. You just loosen the front screws, and pull out the back one, and you can slip the tail out. The easiest way to whiten the jaws is to soak Peroxide 30 on a piece of paper tower (only 1 layer of towel). Wearing thin rubber gloves, like medical gloves, carefully stick the soaked paper onto the area you wish to treat, avoiding the other painted surfaces. Place it standing up in the direct sun for a few hours, using a small piece of mirror to get the sun to hit the bottom as it dries. The mirror of course is needed as the bottom of the jaw will naturally shade itself and not whiten. Make sure lion is facing the sun, and if you want, to avoid further sun damage to the rest of the lion, carefully cover the rest with some waste fabric, and use some masking tape to cover the rest of the head. It seems like a little much to prep, but it avoids pulling the decals off to take it apart, just to get the head off. Again in 2-3 hours straight (without disturbing it), it should be good.
You can use this process to whiten any white toy or toy part. Don't forget to give it a towel dabbing rinse with warm water.
You can even use this process to brighten colored toys/toy parts (EXCEPT red and black) too, but you have to reduce the time you leave it in the sun, and need to monitor the item closer. And at the end you must, must warm rinse the colored toy when done. If you don't rinse, the residual peroxide will continue to brighten the item. Red and black do not try unless you want pink and brown parts when done. Hope this helps.
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 26, 2014 18:48:19 GMT -5
Ive done the whitening a few times and once it got on the chrome and some paint even through they were taped so I thought Id try this but both ways I guess have their risks. Ive always wanted a good set of stickers. I have some old golions that the chrome is all bad or if a leg is broken on a good one it would be nice to have some sticker sets especially for the red lions back. I was thinking that too about the tail as well. I just have never had to repair one that way before. This guys chrome joints are in bad shape so he is a good specimen to see if I can get this stuff rechromed. Ive got a bunch of loose lionbots and golions that Ive always wanted to chrome the joints on for my display . I just dont know enough about chroming plastic to know if its even possible. I notice on some ive got where the chrome is faded away the platic underneath is a reddish color
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Post by xtrlowz75 on Apr 26, 2014 23:37:16 GMT -5
To ask about chroming plastic, call around to locate a chroming shop for metal. Many times they will do plastic too, but in a lot, not just a few pieces at a time. Call this place, as I found it on-line. Not sure, but they may do your parts for you. classiccomponents.com/services/plastic-plating |
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Post by crpdiablos on Apr 27, 2014 3:37:36 GMT -5
Thats what I was thinking.I read somewhere that they want the parts sent to them already on a sprue like in a factory. This is why if I do it I want to get as many guys together that want to go in on it and I will sprue everyones parts up ,just for fun no charge, and send the whole lot over for chroming as a mater of fact I may start a thread to see how many guys would go in on it. I imagine its gonna cost me the same to do one set as it is to do 30. What do you think should I start a thread about it or are all the golion guys watching this one anyway?
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Post by xtrlowz75 on Apr 30, 2014 0:07:39 GMT -5
I'd call them just to get an idea if they would do it, and maybe send pictures too of what you want. Then go from there.
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Post by z33brando222 on Jul 10, 2014 4:03:09 GMT -5
I did notice a Golion knockoff I had never seen before on ebay this week, but I can't seem to find it anymore. Came in a full on Godaikin box, except instead of Godaikin it said 5 in 1 Wonderful robot.
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Post by crpdiablos on Jul 10, 2014 10:56:35 GMT -5
Could not find that one unless you are looking at the smaller 6" version. I have never seen the 5 in one in a godikin box, please find it so I can buy it!!
Anyway the more I looked this piece over I realize this has to be a test piece. The chrome elbows are different one having less meat on it than the other. It looks ike in the later versions they went with the beefier piece. I wil post pics when I get a chance
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