Questions about Silver Sharpies for Detailing

[ricecake]

I want to add some silver detail to a model (the Kotobukiya Frame Arms Magatsuki, I know it's not Gunpla but I think it's similar enough that people in this forum can give useful advice) and was thinking of going the silver Sharpie route. I've heard that the Sharpie can be a little tacky and rub off easily. I have two questions about this.

1. I saw there are two different kinds of silver Sharpie, regular and oil-based paint. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to either one?

2. I do not plan to topcoat, but can I alleviate the tackiness/rubbing off by applying clear nail polish to the Sharpie?

[Mr. Ginrai]

I'll address number two first. I would stay away from the clear nail polish. I don't know how it would react with marker or paint based marker and it might not go well. Also, clear nail polish will be high gloss and it will harden to a stiff coat when dry, whether you put one thin coat or several. That's what it's supposed to do - it protects fingernails when it is used because it is not as thick as nail paint. I can see it hardening and then either discoloring over time or cracking and flaking off, or both. If someone has experience, chime in.

For the gold and silver sharpies, I have used whichever versions still look like sharpie markets. They have the standard mid/broad pointed tip, and the marker body and cap is the typical sharpie shape and thickness with the rounded ends.

That kind of gold and silver sharpie is an interesting composition. Not as dry as a sharpie marker but nowhere near a paint marker. This is also the kind where the tip does not have to be compressed to get it working. They just work straight out of the package. I always let it sit for a moment after I write/paint with it, and notice it only pools of you press hard, which I don't. I feel it's pretty durable.

Edit:

These are the ones I've used, the marker type: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007QNWC3M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1428203943&sr=8-1&keywords=sharpie+gold+silver&dpPl=1&dpID=41R6zVKtbBL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I've never seen any evidence that the type I used wanted to rub off. But you have to let it sit for at least two or more minutes before you handle items. I mean you're not talking about writing on paper that would just absorb the marker. Apply the same principles as if you were writing on or marking a smooth surface or glossy photo.

I've used the oil based before, but not sharpie brand. Those will definitely be a "paint" marker.

I also see that they list a water based paint marker in various sharpie colors (including the metallics) as well.

[ricecake]

Thanks for the advice about the clear nail polish! I've used it to tighten up some joints on the model but I will not use it as a top coat.

It sounds like you've had good experiences with the regular silver Sharpie then. I'll see if I can pick one up locally for a good price and test it on the runner. Also, thanks for the pointer to the water-based paint Sharpie, I hadn't seen them before (the package says it's new!)

[Mr. Ginrai]

No problem. Yes, the nail polish is definitely fine for tightening up joints.

You should just grab an unbuilt kit you don't care about (gundam, car, etc.) for like 5 bucks and run some tests with the markers. Or grab leftover parts from an incomplete kit you kit bashed. Then you can at least see how you like it.

The sharpie marker style should come in packs as small as two markers so those will not be that much money ($2-3) to just start out. But ultimately the multi packs would be cheaper.

[ricecake]

Yes, I definitely plan on testing it out before committing to it on the actual model. I figured I would test it on the leftover sprue runner since it will be the exact same plastic and color as the actual piece. Thanks for your advice!

[ricecake]

Thanks for your advice, here is my Kotobukiya Frame Arms Magatsuki, I panel lined it and filled in some details using a Sakura Micron pen and silver Sharpie. It was my first try at masking so some of the silver parts are a little messy, and I'm still getting the hang of nub management, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

For comparison, here are straight out-of-the-box pics from Dalong.