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Post by cyborgbushcricket on Dec 2, 2005 21:40:58 GMT -5
I noticed the otherwise excellent quality King walder junior had a few stress cracks around the neck area particularly around the rivet, I feel these arose due to o removal/placement of head even though ive split the head at the back to facilitate this, it still takes a bit of a push/pull, now with the added play of the satan king costume it finally gave up the ghost, the alien inner head broke off taking with it a small bit of the clear neck plastic. This is nothing a bit of epoxy (maybe) and a small metal rod wont fix but take care KW owners especially if like me you regularly pop the head on/off. On this topic can anybody suggest the best glue for this repair, i would tend to use epoxy but I know little as i tend not to customise.
CBC.
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Post by hypnotator on Dec 3, 2005 10:42:19 GMT -5
Ouch! I hate it when they break and I'm sorry to hear yours did.
Those KWJrs have a bit of an issue with the way the outer heads split when you put 'em on. They made the brains too big! When I first got mine, I laboured so hard to get them over without splitting, but all three split. Another collector told me he got his on intact by heating them with the hairdryer first. I should have thought of that; it's how I put my vinyl model kits together.
I try to keep removing the heads to a minimum. When I was a kid, the heads of Muton, the Amaluk and the Torg all split because I played with them a lot. Now I like to have a figure for each costume so they never have to be removed. This is not a cheap option, though, and I'm still not quite there.
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Post by hypnotator on Dec 4, 2005 4:36:04 GMT -5
Forgot to mention - I recommend you use cyanoacrylate (super) glue. I haven't done a repair on these figures, but I expect it'll work well on the hard, transparent plastic and show minimally. Epoxy glue is more suitable for building up a lump of glue or glueing odd materials like soft plastic or wood. I recommend you squirt some super glue into an old lid and then apply it to the figure minimally using a craft knife or a match. If you apply it directly from the nozzle to the figure, you'll get too much and it'll go everywhere and never come off.
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Post by cyborgbushcricket on Jan 3, 2006 18:06:08 GMT -5
Thanks hypno for the glue advice.
I will have to use the body with my most split walder head so i can pop off/on whenever the desire arises! not much chance of using it with a costume head as if the brain breaks again it will end up stuck inside the satan head!!
actually I find a bit of lubricant helps, a tiny spot of veg oil/vaseline. Hmm, this all sound a bit rude now!
CBC.
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Post by johnnyhaggis on Jan 12, 2006 3:54:14 GMT -5
WHat I've realized about several figures is that the only way to get the heads off without brreeaking them is to heat them up. GUy has a post on this somewhere where he shows different methods. I boil up some water and stick the head in and then it comes right off. Shonen cyborg is like that and Satan King Junior too. The Jr brains for sure are really hard. I notice my Jr. has cracks on the bacl just below the nexck and I'm not sure how it happened, just as my shonen borg has a chip (not a microchip) just over his foot. WHo knows what these guys are up to when we're asleep... Here - I found Guy's post robotjapan.proboards12.com/index.cgi?board=Takaramicro&action=display&thread=1133732029 |
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Post by cyborgbushcricket on Jan 12, 2006 11:53:18 GMT -5
hi johnny, I now use the heat method for KW heads. I put the head in a cup with microwaved water to remove but i tend to use a hairdryer carefully on the kaijin helmet to avoid getting water inside so its not wet when i put it on. I actually use my 3/4 split head on one of the yellow walder on display as i can pop on/off at will. Its a real shame that takara didnt do a muton sized brain as that works perfectly.
CBC.
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Post by johnnyhaggis on Jan 12, 2006 16:08:23 GMT -5
For split heads: Whit I do is I take a tiny screw driver, like for glases, and I head it up in a flame, and then at the op of the split, I burn a small hole by pushing the hot metal through. What this does is prevents it from splitting ever higher. The "vinutage" walders and costumes all were expressly made with slits in the head and there was always a circular hole on top.
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