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Post by johnnyhaggis on Feb 5, 2006 16:59:08 GMT -5
So - what's the best way to dye or paint cyborgs? I want to make a yellow KWII. I've used clothing dye that you boil on a silicone iskin type thing and that worked, but I have no clue if this would work on a cyborg and I don't want to risk it. Any tips, or expereinces?
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Post by heavyarmscustom on Feb 5, 2006 19:13:55 GMT -5
hey J
I do belive the clothing dye will work you may also try epoxy resin dye(do delute) my aqua henshin was just a clear blue Mr hobby paint and you could use the glass paint
but tamyia clears also would work with an airbrush
I'll try to find a link that tell you how to dye your henshins tonight
best of luck
clifton
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Post by johnnyhaggis on Feb 5, 2006 21:54:15 GMT -5
DOn't have any airbrush. I wish I had something in clear henshin type plastic that I could test it out on. I don't want to use paints because I'll make a mess with a brush. Hoping I can just soak it like I did the iskin. Let me know if you find anything, and thanks!
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Post by heavyarmscustom on Feb 6, 2006 1:39:39 GMT -5
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Post by GUYx1 on Feb 10, 2006 21:39:39 GMT -5
Johnny, I'd be careful abou using Dye. Most people use diluted Tamiya Transparent paint. This is how mine turned out. (No paint was used on the head)  Is this the sort of thing you are looking to accomplish? - Guy |
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Post by cyborgbushcricket on Feb 10, 2006 21:50:42 GMT -5
heck guy, I just got a vinyl walder satan costume, fit it on my red walder 99 then started looking at my cyborg 99 and thinking 'yellow' just as you must have already done, very cool!!
CBC.
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Post by cyborgbushcricket on Feb 10, 2006 21:52:42 GMT -5
PS......I love the jars of pickles, very walder!! i always imagined as a kid that cyborg and muton has clear liquid circulating around the brain under the clear skin.
CBC.
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Post by cyborgbushcricket on Feb 10, 2006 21:59:54 GMT -5
Guy, can you give us more details on painting the 99 bodies, im getting very tempted, I suppose you could also incorporate custom guts (i dont have a spare walder 99) that could be fun.
CBC.
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Post by GUYx1 on Feb 11, 2006 9:51:03 GMT -5
Great care must be taken before actually trying out a new method. LESS IS MORE, Take BABY STEPS. It is best to experiment on some form of crystalline plastic. I would pick up a couple vending machine toy containers. It is well worth the trouble. If you dye the plastic by boiling RIT DYE , it may not be entirely permanent (as in my repro Dr Evil Experiments in various colors.) These Dr. Evil experiments are now living out their toy lives in BODY BAGS, to prevent the color from contaminating any other toys. The Dye can leach out many months later (As in the Vinyl Bowler hats I dyed black and they later stained a figure's head, nose, face, etc) I tried to dye an action man - a different type of plastic again and the chest warped. Paint is often less of a nuisance, but that too must be applied in thin layers and over time. Krylon has glass paint which seemed to me to be a bit TOO thick, almost seeming opaque compared to the Tamiya transparent paints. I tried to do as much painting as possible INSIDE the doll itself vs Outside the doll. I once purchased a walder whose joints were painted to the point of immobility. Tamiya manufactures a wide variety of amazing colors in transparent paints. Always check with the hobby shop paint expert as to which type to use, as Tamiya manufactures specialized paints for two types of plastics. Normal transparent plastic and polycarbonate transparent plastic. Poly Carb is a "versatile thermoplastic" that can withstand temps ranging from -40"F to 280"F. That sort of paint will not adhere to normal plastic and any responsible hobby shop owner would give you a raised eyebrow and a "What do you plan to use this for?" before you purchased it. If you bu the bottle form of clear paint, an airbrush would work best, however atomizing bottled paints does tend to drain your little bottle before you know it. Cleaning the blasted airbrush all the time is a real pain (not to mention the "whoops, I've filled the basemen with a yellow mist" and run out of paint in the process scenario. You can always just thin it out with alcohol and dab on the paint inside. Just only paint the external bits sparingly and be careful to with the internal crevices - as paint tends to pool up in those areas. Jim Bob-Wan has an excellent bit on cyborg modifications. users2.ev1.net/~jimbobwan/gij61d.htm- Guy |
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Post by johnnyhaggis on Feb 11, 2006 13:43:13 GMT -5
That's pretty much what I wanted to nknow! Did you paint it with a brish, or by dipping, or airbrush? Wouldn't a brush leave streaks? Is the paint easy to scratch off? I got a black transparent KWII that I bought and the pain is perfect, it's painted o the outside, but it doesn't scratch off at all.
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Post by GUYx1 on Feb 16, 2006 19:26:04 GMT -5
I just dabbed severely diluted paint on the inside and shook out each piece, hanging them to drip dry.
Remember the Cyborg 99 has a lotta parts.
Thankfully you can snag a loose Yelowed 99 off og YJ and your work is half way there...
It takes awhile, but it is worth it in the long run.
- Guy
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