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Post by bootx2 on Dec 28, 2004 12:43:59 GMT -5
Hey guys, I was just wondering how you're suppose to paint the models. Do you put the model together first and then paint it? Or paint it as you go along and then put it together? I've built many SD Gundams but I usually paint it as I put it together. But for MG's and PG's, you would snap it together first rite?
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Post by Omni Existence on Dec 28, 2004 12:48:56 GMT -5
It depends on the modeller.
Myself, I paint the pieces first, then do some dry fitting to make sure that I didn't overspray, or if some of the parts need to be sanded/puttied.
Others paint only essential areas like the skelleton, and paint the rest after assembly. This is good when sealing the gaps and seam lines.
My advise, whichever you're comfortable with. When you're comfy, your models turn out better than you expect. ;D
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Post by Ben-Ohki on Dec 29, 2004 9:14:02 GMT -5
Yes - a matter of taste and personal style. I've learned a few tricks through experience... like getting lazy and not painting the endo-skeletons. Seriously though, if you're planning on tricks like a pale silver behind a Gundam's clear eyes, you'd do that first-thing so you can get to work on assembly while that's drying. Hobby Japan magazine sometimes suggests doing your primer coat while the pieces are still on the sprue to get an even coat. But I prefer priming afterwards since I sometimes I'll try to conceal seams with putty, etc. I usually end up assembling everything, then removing the major limbs and head to do any spraying, then reassembling that before painting. So actually - there's no "correct" way to do it... just a matter of what you're comfortable with. Good luck!!
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Post by bootx2 on Dec 29, 2004 13:57:14 GMT -5
Thanx guys. But first I need to get an airbrush... ha ha ha.
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Post by Ben-Ohki on Dec 29, 2004 16:16:03 GMT -5
Well, for priming, I can suggest just a can of spray paint. Get either black or white depending on what final colours you want - black for dark shades and white for vibrant shades. I recommend Citadel paints at a local hobby shop because in my experience, they produce a finer mist than stuff you get at the hardware store... however, you'll likely pay more. Gundams in general are so small that brush work won't give you as many streaks as you'd think. Some of my best work was done with a brush! ...in fact, I just got my first cheapy air brush ...TODAY!
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Post by heavyarmscustom on Jan 4, 2005 14:46:55 GMT -5
hey there A note on the Citadel priomer it's one of a handfull of non automotive primers that shrink as it dries. It's made for mini's and fine detail. I have had the stuff reveal scraches and imperfections in the putty and scrach building in/on my gundams where regular primmer is ment to fill in small inperfections on the surface. I just spray Model masters lacquer based flat black then paint as normal,the acrylic will not harm the under coat.
I just wish some one would come up with a Primmer/paint that is gundam color specific. Grey/white,grey metal, Green,Red, so on and so forth. that would kick ass
as far as airbrushing and brush painting. Air is by far the best for realistic coats of main paint and shading But brush is by far the best for weathering and washing.
just my two cents clifton
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Post by bootx2 on Jan 4, 2005 16:05:21 GMT -5
Cool thanks guys. Another question...
Would it be possible to achieve a similar shading effect using dry brushing instead of an air brush?
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Post by Ben-Ohki on Jan 6, 2005 17:39:22 GMT -5
Hmm ...that's tough. Honestly, there's nothing quite like air-brushing. With a dead brush (that is, the point is worn away) you can do "dry-brushing" by touching the paint on with a "stabbing" motion... This is called stippling. I've never been able to get a particularly good effect with it though. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.
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Post by heavyarmscustom on Jan 7, 2005 1:49:50 GMT -5
I use a nice flat brush and it's great for corners and upraised detail. same method dip in paint and wipe off til little or no paint comes off. and lightly rub against. I found with the dead brushther is a lot of over painting into the surrounding area.
but dead brushes are great for drybrush shading. my two cents clifton
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