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Post by Shinya on Apr 28, 2005 22:43:40 GMT -5
What pens are best for outlining? I'm usin gundam outliners but they seem to smudge, and look pretty fake on the gundam when they're solid. Want something like the outlines on the models on those boxes ><. Or is there sum kinda techniques for outlining?
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Post by muumuu on May 15, 2005 9:18:48 GMT -5
I've read to use diff colors based on what you're outlining... white parts work well with grey, red/yellow with brown, and everything else with black. I might go look for some pigmas for brown, the black you can get easily as well. I don't know if this happens with the black outliner gundam markers, but if wiping away the excess ends up smearing it, you can use an eraser to take away the smear. So far that's what I found to be effective... anyone that's more experienced and are not afraid to share, have at it ![;)](http://lemonstre.fr/robot-japan/smileys/wink.png)
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Post by bleen on May 15, 2005 10:46:06 GMT -5
I've only built 3 kits so far, but I've experimented quite a lot with panel lining... here is my technique: I use a thin permanent marker. For MGs or 1/100: I just use the marker on top of the thin beveled lines, and then take away the excess ink with some cotton lightly dipped in alcohol (not too much alcohol and not too much pressure!). If you have too much alcohol, it will enter the beveled line and make a mess, if you press too much you'll erase the line. This worked wonders for me! :-) For PGs or 1/60s, which are bigger and have thicker lines, I do the same when I can, and when the line is thicker and the cotton always erases it, it means that you don't actually need the cotton! I leave these lines "unerased". The result is quite nice! :-) I've still to discover a way to paint unbeveled lines in 1/100... since I can't get ultra-thin permanent markers here... ![:-/](http://lemonstre.fr/robot-japan/smileys/undecided.png) If you want to erase tiny parts, just dip a toothpic in alcohol and QUICKLY start erasing. Or you can just take a thin piece of cotton and wrap it around the toothpic's tip and dip that in alcohol... The good stuff about this technique is: You dont' smear (permanent marker comes 100% off with alcohol!!!). You can correct any mistake without fear. The marker is PERMANENT (no running ink like those pigmented ink markers!). It's cheap (no need for expensive gundam markers!). I've tried using different colours, and I didnt' like the look ![:-/](http://lemonstre.fr/robot-japan/smileys/undecided.png) they just aren't as noticeable as black... Another thought: panel lining the black parts is not a waste of time... if the plastic isn't as black as the marker. I've panel lined the rifle of my PG Strike and the black parts of my MG RX-79(G), it is noticeable. Have fun! :-)
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Post by muumuu on May 15, 2005 14:45:16 GMT -5
Nice ideas. Don't the alcohol treatment morph the plastic somewhat though? I've used acetone to clean off paint on some airsoft things, and the plastic DOES start warping a little if you take too much time...
I might try the thinner end of the pigmented markers and cut out a slice of eraser to work with wiping things off. It's done quite a nice job at it so far... I'll see about taking pictures of the result after I try this matte spray.
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Post by OmegaX18 on May 15, 2005 14:56:59 GMT -5
For unbeveled lines/corners: u can use an xacto knife to "bevel" the area in and then use the technique that Bleen mentions. Juss make sure the knife is sharp at all times and PRACTICE a lot. one slip u and u'll end up wit additional panel lines u never wanted. When done well tho ull have very thin lines.
On another note: for those who built the wing ver. ka., wut pen did u use. I want to go wit the gold lining but I cant find ne thin pens wit tat color. Should I juss use brown?
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Post by bleen on May 15, 2005 18:47:09 GMT -5
Don't the alcohol treatment morph the plastic somewhat though? I've used acetone to clean off paint on some airsoft things, and the plastic DOES start warping a little if you take too much time... I've SUBMERGED the pieces in alcohol to take away some matte coating I had (badly) applied. I'v let them rest for 15~20 min. They are like new.... So no.... Alcohol, at least to my knowledge, doesn't do a thing to ABS plastic! :-)
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Post by heavyarmscustom on May 17, 2005 12:39:55 GMT -5
I use Micron Pens at 005 and 01 for my P-line. but I use it as a pre shading also as I try to use as little primer /paint as possable. and they have come out with a line of colors(black/red/rust(brown)purple/green) you put it in the line and can wipe off the rest with you finger before it dries. also works with a clear coat and a cloth rag or simi moist cotton gause
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