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Post by gpa on Feb 19, 2008 3:31:37 GMT -5
Well after years of resistance, I have finally bought and built my first Gundam kit. Now the problem I'm having is I'm not sure what'll happen if I apply a dry transfer to an unpainted kit? I've tried to find info on this but it seems like alot of the MG collectors paint their kits, which is something I don't have the time to do, so anyone have any advice please?
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Post by mannix143 on Feb 19, 2008 4:52:05 GMT -5
maybe this will help Dry transfers These are basically "rub-ons". Again, you want to apply these onto a glossy surface. * Cut the decal from the sheet using a sharp blade. * Apply clear tape over the front of the decal and position it on your kit. The tape will hold the decal in place. The clear tape will allow you to see where you're putting the decal. * Then using a small blunt object like a dull pencil or a skewer, rub the decal onto the kit. You should be able to see the decal detaching from the clear sheet. Keep rubbing until your sure it's down then rub some more. * Remove the tape and clear sheet carefully. found on this site ^_^ www.fichtenfoo.com/02GiantRobots/02c-MGHowTo.html#Decals2
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Post by MechaShiva on Feb 19, 2008 5:24:59 GMT -5
If there's a small transfer you don't mind sacrificing you can test it out on the unpainted plastic. If it doesn't stay on too well you can buy a can each of glosscoat and flatcoat from any hobby shop--there's lots of 'em online.
If you don't want to sacrifice a decal then you can buy a small,cheap set of dry transfers along with the spray paint from HLJ or another online store.
If you need to glosscoat the model you can partially dissasemble the model or just suspend the arms---resting the hands on something---so you can spray the whole thing. Mask off any clear parts. Use light mists from at least 12 inches away until the whole model is covered. Let the glosscoat dry for at least 24 hours.
After applying the transfers you can then seal it with flatcoat (or glosscoat for that factory fresh look).
I think Mannix's link should have all this info and more. Hope it helps!
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Post by gpa on Feb 19, 2008 11:35:44 GMT -5
Cool, I think this'll help alot guys. I'll find out next weekend! Thanks!
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Post by Ben-Ohki on Feb 19, 2008 13:19:44 GMT -5
Ironically, while I have plenty of dry-transfer experience on MG kits - I also have ZERO experience doing dry transfer onto painted surfaces!
The only bit of advice I have for you is to clean the surface before you apply the decal. I like to rinse entire sprues under soapy water (and rinse with clean water, of course) before starting the kit at all - this is just in case there's any release-agent left from the mold.
Other than that, mannix143 pretty much covered it in his post: position carefully and rub a lot - you don't want to have part of the decal on and part off - this will cause it to tear when you remove the backing!
I highly recommend clear-coating the finished model to protect decals. If you only want to protect the decals (rather than clear-coating the whole model), I recommend decal setting solution - this'll form a non-gloss virtually invisible surface over the decal. Works well with both wet-transfer and dry-transfer.
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