NO! NOT with a Scouring pad! LOL!!! D'oh! ;D
I'd sand Those parts down with
320-grit (Very FINE) sandpaper...
G E N T L Y !... In
circular motion.
AVOID letting the sand paper touch the factory-painted
enamel parts such as the shoulders and upperbody.
Remove the forearms and other close-contact
and/or loose parts
before starting the work.
If ya gotta unscrew and take stuff apart, Do so.
DON'T BE LAZY and think you can paint without
gettin paint on other parts.
It's better to take the SOC apart and do a Neat paintjob
than try to be Picasso.
This will also teach you how the SOC is assembled,
so, keep the disassembled parts organized in a bowl
or a shoebox so they don't get lost.
Place small screws from each part inside small
ziplock bags and keep the bags with the parts those
screws came from.
Spraypainting: can be quite messy, and it's easy to end
up spraying the coats too thick. If the non-paintable
parts aren't properly masked, the spraypaint will bleed
onto those parts and will be difficult to clean off.
Brushpainting: Practice first on an old object to get your
technique down good... this involves Brush control to
the amount of paint you will apply as a THIN COAT to
the surface of the object.
This will also temper your Patience. You Must be PATIENT
when brushpainting. It's easy to rush the brush and ruin
the paintjob. Don't rush the brush.
Have several brushes with different tips... Wide tips for
large areas; Small tips for small areas and detailed edging.
Again, and I can't stress this enough: Don't Rush The Brush.
If you paint ONTO the chrome, the paint will not adhere
and will also feel tacky and rub off.
In order for the new paintjob to work and adhere to
the diecast, you Must sand the previous paint off First.
The same for using metallic markers. Fck it, AVOID metallic
markers... only use them for
tiny touchup spots in
areas that can't be seen at a glance.
After all the sanding is done, blow off any sand dust residue.
Do NOT wipe the sanded areas with a damp cloth...
...the moisture will ruin the diecast.
Getting ready to paint: Do it at ROOM TEMPERATURE.
If the environment is too cool or too humid, the paintjob
will turn out ruined- too tacky- never fully dry.
Then you'll have problems.
Now you're getting ready to paint the sanded parts...
...make sure the room is dust-free and smoke-free.
If your hair breaks off easily, wear a showercap or a hat.
Broken hair stuck on fresh paint will ruin the paintjob.
Make sure the room is well-ventilated.
Apply your first coat, as a THIN layer. Let it THOROUGHLY dry
to a full cure. Then lightly sand that first layer with the 320grit
sand paper... this will scuff the painted surface, so that the
second coat will adhere to the first coat.
You don't wanna paint no more than TWO COATS.
Once you're done painting the parts, allow them to fully
dry for about 3 or 4 days to a full cure
before you
physically handle them.
Make sure the figure is placed safely in an area to dry
where there is no dust falling from overhead, like
under a shelf; and on a sturdy table or surface to avoid
having it get knocked over by some dumbassed kids or
stoOopid cats and dogs. (just kidding, but very TRUE.)
For tight detailed parts like the head, you're better off
leaving it As Is than try to paint it and ruin it, especially
if you have shakey nervous hands.
If you're still unsure about this, try practicing first on
an old broken diecast SOC or chogokin that you no
longer need, so that you can get a feel for the job
and develop your painting technique.
zozo-Magengar
So,
magengar bro, you usually say that before painting you will sand the chrome first! Won't this leave some scratchy lines or something on the arm? If apply the new paint directly on the chrome, is it wrong?
I am thinking about these spray paints or perhaps that marker metallic pen id the color is matching.
I really wish I will have to paint the upper arms only cuz painting legs, waist 'n head will make me nervous!