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Post by mayita on Jun 22, 2007 12:20:53 GMT -5
I have to say that i just restarted my old projects 2 days ago soon ill post updates on the alpha
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Post by mayita on May 31, 2008 1:24:38 GMT -5
bump
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Post by magengar on May 31, 2008 11:54:18 GMT -5
bump
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Post by coldiron on Dec 17, 2008 3:17:54 GMT -5
I was curious is there any damage to the original figure or paint when making a mold fromit?
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Post by magengar on Dec 17, 2008 19:19:49 GMT -5
The original could get stained or damaged if you don't coat it with a mold-release spray. Like greasing a pan so fried eggs nor pancakes don't stick to it... mold-release works the same way, preventing liquid rubbers and other mold making materials from adhereing to the original part. I'd cast a copy of the original part ONCE, and use the copy as a master-template for making more parts of the same. zozo-Magengar I was curious is there any damage to the original figure or paint when making a mold fromit? |
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Post by coldiron on Dec 17, 2008 19:30:53 GMT -5
Thanks. I just wanted to make sure I can avoid damaging my toy if I decide to copy some of its parts to make custom variations.
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Post by acturus on Dec 19, 2008 7:44:45 GMT -5
Just be carefull with the mold release you dont want it to get on to stickers your robot my have it will damage them, might even make them come off after some time.
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Post by macrossninja on Dec 20, 2008 16:38:21 GMT -5
Hey all....I have a set of "DYRL?" style forearm armor for 1/55 Macross VF-1s that I would like to get recasted so I can get them to whoever is interested in having them. That way you would not have to worry about any clips breaking off or anything like that. I don't really have the dough to get the materials...and I have not recasted anything before so I was looking for someone to do it for me. Please let me know if anyone is interested and Pm with what you think the cost would be per set. THANKS! Here's a few pics...      This last pic here shows how they would look on a 1/55. It's not a close up...but I think you get what I am talkin about.  EDIT------> DYRL? NOT TV |
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Post by Otaru Ikari on Dec 20, 2008 17:41:27 GMT -5
Sticky power on
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Post by macrossninja on Dec 20, 2008 18:14:29 GMT -5
Otaru,
Huh?!? What?!? I'm lost on that mate.
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Post by coldiron on Dec 20, 2008 22:01:50 GMT -5
Admin has powers to sticky the thread.
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Post by macrossninja on Dec 21, 2008 14:01:03 GMT -5
Oh.....duh me. LOL.
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Post by mayita on Sept 3, 2009 19:17:40 GMT -5
WOW after all this time my old thread still alive
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Post by magengar on Nov 12, 2009 15:07:48 GMT -5
Well, I can't m2m resucitate this thread--- ---but I can help Bump it. BoOomp. ;D zozo-Magengar WOW after all this time my old thread still alive |
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Post by galbot on Jan 9, 2010 19:22:00 GMT -5
Casting in colour simply requires you to add colour tinct to your resin. Rosered over at mightymuggs forum has a massive write-up with links on how to use resin/two-part molds with colour etc...she even does clear parts. I'll see if I can get the link when my connection speeds up.
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Post by galbot on Jan 9, 2010 20:03:26 GMT -5
No...scratch that, it's not there anymore which is a shame since she made the first ever clear resin mighty mug and clear accessories for the line. She knows her casting stuff.
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jan 10, 2010 22:00:42 GMT -5
One question: When using a two part mold, like the ones pictures in this thread, how is the resin poured in? That is the one thing that has me hesitating on starting casting my own customs. I've heard of many methods, but they either consume too much resin or just don't really make sense.
Any advise from the experts here is greatly appreciated!
}D
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Post by galbot on Jan 11, 2010 2:51:30 GMT -5
TWO/ONE PART MOULDS RESOURCES: WATCH THESE AND EVERYTHING ON THE SIDEBAR THREE TIMES EACH AND YOU'LL BE AS GOOD A CASTER AS ANYONE ELSE. THIS IS A MUCH EASIER EXPLANATION/METHOD OF CASTING THAN ON PAGE 1 (Ballbearings! Holy cow!) www.b9robotresource.com/molding1.htmI made these first go just by watching and reading the above. The mould took 7 minutes all up to construct the box, three minutes to mix the resin, overnight to set, and each stand took exactly 32 secs to set.....thats 20 base-stands in about 5 mins.....200 in two days including GID ones for my Transformers collection.    It's not hard but it gets expensive if you live outside of the U.S.A. However, if you have a bunch of people working with you it's cheaper. Doing it alone is good as a hobby but only pays off if your looking to make money out of it as a customiser or a freelance toy-maker. |
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Post by droutmaster on Jan 12, 2010 23:38:59 GMT -5
you know i always wanted to make a character of mine as a figure, i got the model figure to base on and then work with it around, problem is i haven't been able to find extra parts for him so i guess making a mold of the original parts would work best. what could be a better material for casting or product?
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Post by galbot on Jan 13, 2010 1:48:25 GMT -5
The stuff in that pic above is solid polurythane resin. Those are just Takara Transformer die-cast toy bases...this, however, is one of our original designs, same thing though, takes about the same amount of time to pour and set the mould and about 40 secs to make each one (time for the resin to set depending on what you buy)  |
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