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Post by admin1 aka Ed on Jan 24, 2010 9:37:23 GMT -5
Thank you for the wonderful resources Galbot  |
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Post by magengar on Jan 24, 2010 15:28:52 GMT -5
This question caught my eye. Try this: Your mold is ready for the resin to be poured in. the smallest part of the mold should be at the bottom, so that when you SLOWLY pour the resin inside there will be no airbubbles as the resin reaches the top of the mold-opening where the resin is being poured. zozo-Magengar PS: BUMP! This is one of the BEST topics in this forum.  One question: When using a two part mold, like the ones pictures in this thread, how is the resin poured in? That is the one thing that has me hesitating on starting casting my own customs. I've heard of many methods, but they either consume too much resin or just don't really make sense. Any advise from the experts here is greatly appreciated! }D |
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Post by jay27 on Jan 28, 2010 0:22:11 GMT -5
great thread thanks bro...
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Post by mojacko on Jan 28, 2010 0:50:51 GMT -5
can anyone cast a MPO1 gun??? thanks
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Post by magengar on Jan 28, 2010 16:59:11 GMT -5
This next question also caught my eye... Ok, you're ready to pour the resin into the half part mold. To determine how much resin to use in your mold: Place a piece of Saran wrap inside the mold and gentlypress it into the detail of the mold. Make sure you have enough Saran wrap lapped over the top of the half part of the mold... ...now, use a MEASURING Cup and pour some water in it, just a little at a time. Like, say, 1/4 cup of water. Take note of how much water you used... ...Pour the water into the Saran wrap which is sitting inside the half-part of the mold. If you need more water to fill the mold, add a little more water into the Measuring Cup (take notes of how much more water you've added... you will later add this amount to get the Total amount of water used***)... ...Once the mold is filled with water, look at your notesand add up the amounts of water you used. This should equal the TOTAL amount of water used altogether... ***This Total amount will represent exactly
how much Resin to use for that mold. Now, CAREFULLY grab the Saran wrap by the lapping excess, and lift it out of the mold. Be careful NOT to spill the water. (And, NO, DO NOT Drink it! LOL) Hope this helps. zozo-Magengar One question: When using a two part mold, like the ones pictures in this thread, how is the resin poured in? That is the one thing that has me hesitating on starting casting my own customs. I've heard of many methods, but they either consume too much resin or just don't really make sense. Any advise from the experts here is greatly appreciated! }D |
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Post by magengar on Aug 3, 2010 16:51:16 GMT -5
BUMPing this thread, so I can refer to it from time to time.
The more I read it the more I wanna start buying all the materials
I need to learn and practice making casts...
...something to keep me occupied during the winter. ;D
zozo-Magengar
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Post by magengar on Aug 11, 2010 16:10:25 GMT -5
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Post by magengar on Sept 4, 2010 19:21:17 GMT -5
My moldmaking supplies and resin kits are
just starting to come in.
I'm so friggin excited, and I can hardly wait
to cast my first Knockoff Mazingers! ;D
Soon as everything arrives, I will post a thread
listing all the products I'm using and all the techniques
and rigging I'll be executing for my projects.
Stay tuned...
zozo-Magengar
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Post by mayita on Oct 11, 2010 20:54:46 GMT -5
please post your pictures if you have them already , I just started collecting predators from hot toys and the armors are kind of easy to cast i might start making customs soon ^_^
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Post by magengar on Nov 1, 2010 6:11:46 GMT -5
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ace66
Junior Robot
Posts: 19
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Post by ace66 on Nov 25, 2010 11:26:27 GMT -5
TWO/ONE PART MOULDS RESOURCES: WATCH THESE AND EVERYTHING ON THE SIDEBAR THREE TIMES EACH AND YOU'LL BE AS GOOD A CASTER AS ANYONE ELSE. THIS IS A MUCH EASIER EXPLANATION/METHOD OF CASTING THAN ON PAGE 1 (Ballbearings! Holy cow!) www.b9robotresource.com/molding1.htmI made these first go just by watching and reading the above. The mould took 7 minutes all up to construct the box, three minutes to mix the resin, overnight to set, and each stand took exactly 32 secs to set.....thats 20 base-stands in about 5 mins.....200 in two days including GID ones for my Transformers collection.    It's not hard but it gets expensive if you live outside of the U.S.A. However, if you have a bunch of people working with you it's cheaper. Doing it alone is good as a hobby but only pays off if your looking to make money out of it as a customiser or a freelance toy-maker. Fantastic post.... thanks!!! |
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ace66
Junior Robot
Posts: 19
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Post by ace66 on Nov 30, 2010 20:01:44 GMT -5
Just about to start my project and I just wanted to see if anyone has tried to cast a styrofoam bust before???
I know that its not the best to sculpt with but it is the most forgiving.
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Post by magengar on Dec 1, 2010 0:11:13 GMT -5
About the only things I've ever casted with styrofoam are
a box and a plastic Wonder Bread bag... the foam I used was
"Great Stuff" Insulation Foam. After it hardened, I could
then sculpt it and paint it over with Plasti-Dip to make the
outter surface of the foam sculpture solid as hard rubber.
I tried to make a Getter1 head and it turned out decent-
but I tossed it away while moving to a new apartrment.
Be careful what kind of foam you use... some styrofoams
can easily corrode under paint and Plasti-Dip due to chemical
reactions in these materials.
"Great Stuff" foam holds up to paint and Plasti-Dip as long as
it's a large solid hard foam object. The downside to it is that ya
gotta use the whole can at once or the foam will dry inside
the nozzle and clog the can.
Also, USE PLENTY OF VENTILATION.
zozo-Magengar
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ace66
Junior Robot
Posts: 19
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Post by ace66 on Dec 1, 2010 5:14:31 GMT -5
About the only things I've ever casted with styrofoam are a box and a plastic Wonder Bread bag... the foam I used was "Great Stuff" Insulation Foam. After it hardened, I could then sculpt it and paint it over with Plasti-Dip to make the outter surface of the foam sculpture solid as hard rubber. I tried to make a Getter1 head and it turned out decent- but I tossed it away while moving to a new apartrment. Be careful what kind of foam you use... some styrofoams can easily corrode under paint and Plasti-Dip due to chemical reactions in these materials. "Great Stuff" foam holds up to paint and Plasti-Dip as long as it's a large solid hard foam object. The downside to it is that ya gotta use the whole can at once or the foam will dry inside the nozzle and clog the can. Also, USE PLENTY OF VENTILATION. zozo-Magengar Very cool. Thanks man. What did you use to shape or make rounded edges? |
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Post by magengar on Dec 1, 2010 12:24:54 GMT -5
Well, when the Great Stuff insulation foam cures it becomes very rigid.
It takes up to 72 hours to completely cure rock rigid.
If you fill a container with it, it will cure on the outside, but will stay
wet and gooey on the inside due to lack of air flow.
You can paint it. I like to cover it with an outer layer of Plasti-Dip
(the liquid rubber that's used for dipping tools into and making handle grips).
As for sculpting things from it, you can use anything to do the types of
cuts, shaves, edging you're looking to achieve.
If I wanna round the object out into a certain curved shape, I'd use a
fine-toothed file. When done, the surface will have what I call a "Muppet skin"
texture and feel to it. It will look and feel fuzzy.
It is very porous and will absorb paint, making the surface look rough and bumpy.
That's when the painting chore begins.... the surface is so porous you'd have
to prime it with a thick coat of Plasti-Dip to create a matte smooth surface
so that the paint will not get absorbed. Then apply two coats of thin layered paint,
gently sanding in between coats with 320grit sandpaper.
After painting is done, let cure for 48-72 hours.
I almost forgot to mention... whether painting, priming, or
Plasti-Dip'ing this foam--- do it in thin layers at a time
so each layer will cure and be sandable to adhere the next layer.
zozo-Magengar
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Post by mayita on Dec 9, 2010 17:10:20 GMT -5
its nice to see that this post still alive after such a long time
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Post by magengar on Dec 10, 2010 1:26:59 GMT -5
You aint kiddin, bro. I bookmarked it into my list in my profile page so I can find it from There in case this post got buried into oblivion someday. And, as I've stated in the past, I like to read this thread for learning reference. Rather than waste expensive mold-making and casting materials, I'm anxious to start learning by casting simple shapes using Resin/Hardeners and Five-Minute Epoxy resins sold in hardware stores... I'll just pour them into silicone rubber cupcake trays and let sit for a few days or until the resins cure. I wanna try all kinds of experiments like this BEFORE I continue buying the real grade supplies. For those of you who can't wait for supplies online... ...you'll find them at your local supply store chains such as Michael's and Jo-Ann Fabrics; and at Home Depot you'll find fiberglass resin kits such as Bondo. CAUTION: wear gloves and sh*tty clothes when messin with Bondo... that stuff will stay permanent to skin and clothing. And remember, use this stuff in a VENTILATED room! zozo-Magengar its nice to see that this post still alive after such a long time |
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ace66
Junior Robot
Posts: 19
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Post by ace66 on Dec 14, 2010 15:38:51 GMT -5
edited
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2010 17:41:40 GMT -5
TWO/ONE PART MOULDS RESOURCES: WATCH THESE AND EVERYTHING ON THE SIDEBAR THREE TIMES EACH AND YOU'LL BE AS GOOD A CASTER AS ANYONE ELSE. THIS IS A MUCH EASIER EXPLANATION/METHOD OF CASTING THAN ON PAGE 1 (Ballbearings! Holy cow!) www.b9robotresource.com/molding1.htmI made these first go just by watching and reading the above. The mould took 7 minutes all up to construct the box, three minutes to mix the resin, overnight to set, and each stand took exactly 32 secs to set.....thats 20 base-stands in about 5 mins.....200 in two days including GID ones for my Transformers collection. It's not hard but it gets expensive if you live outside of the U.S.A. However, if you have a bunch of people working with you it's cheaper. Doing it alone is good as a hobby but only pays off if your looking to make money out of it as a customiser or a freelance toy-maker. Fantastic post.... thanks!!! Thanks for the information, it will be very handy soon! |
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Post by magengar on Mar 30, 2011 16:26:39 GMT -5
Thanks to all you Resin-casting Mofos, I'm now hooked on a new druuuuuuuuuug! ;D Pics and tuts soon to come, stay tuned. zozo-Mag |
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