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Post by mojacko on Nov 27, 2013 11:11:01 GMT -5
yes exported as STL file but when i tried uploading it again...it was taking way too long for 121 KB file....does it usually take too much time to upload a small file?  |
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Post by coldiron on Nov 27, 2013 11:16:19 GMT -5
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Post by xiombarg on Nov 27, 2013 11:59:27 GMT -5
It shouldn't take any more than about a minute at most. It could be that your model is in metric but it was uploaded in standard, which can often make it huge. When uploading a file there will some place where you can specify which measurement type you need and what kind of units. yes exported as STL file but when i tried uploading it again...it was taking way too long for 121 KB file....does it usually take too much time to upload a small file? |
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Post by mojacko on Nov 27, 2013 13:55:36 GMT -5
OK I fiddle around with Autocad....now its making more sense....tried uploading it at Ponoko and everything is OK ....just need to check my scale and dimension.....dont want the print out to be too Big...nor too smal...just have too be just right....this is FUN!!!
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Post by magengar on Dec 3, 2013 0:04:49 GMT -5
I was browsing the web checking out the website for the program known as "David 3D Laser Scanner" and found a tutorial of that program showing the process of scanning an object and saving it as a file... and then I stumbled across This... www.thatsmyface.com/zozo-mag |
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Post by mojacko on Dec 3, 2013 13:37:50 GMT -5
im still into old school, just bought an el cheapo plastic caliper from the dollar store, and i must say one of the most useful dollar i spent!!!
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Post by xiombarg on Dec 3, 2013 16:53:24 GMT -5
I actually still use a caliper fairly often. Really helps when trying to visualize spacing, sizes, etc.
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Post by mojacko on Dec 3, 2013 21:11:05 GMT -5
Helps big time on small gaps & openings on tiny parts. Couldn't imagine how to work without it.
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Post by xiombarg on Dec 3, 2013 22:25:01 GMT -5
Agree with you there. In my TZ robot I had to use a caliper for the embedded lock nuts and for a lot of other spacing issues.
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Post by mojacko on Dec 4, 2013 8:30:20 GMT -5
i thought i could get away with the regular triangular scale i use when doing construction drawings.....what the heck its dirt cheap anyways.... lolz
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Post by mojacko on Dec 4, 2013 9:24:23 GMT -5
btw...do any of you guys need to put a little tolerance on small openings diameters? like 0.01mm maybe? will be too much??? or do you just go with exact diameter and print it off???
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Post by magengar on Dec 4, 2013 10:06:18 GMT -5
After reading your previous posts I realize I've overlooked the importance of having a tool such as the Caliper for this aspect of the hobby. I'll need to buy a useful plastic caliper at Harbor Freight. As for Tolerance: If it were up to me, I would try to print the exact diameter as Exactly possible. Because I'd rather fine-tune a tight fit than be annoyed by an unrepairable lose fit.  zozo-mag |
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Post by mojacko on Dec 4, 2013 11:46:51 GMT -5
After reading your previous posts I realize I've overlooked the importance of having a tool such as the Caliper for this aspect of the hobby. I'll need to buy a useful plastic caliper at Harbor Freight. As for Tolerance: If it were up to me, I would try to print the exact diameter as Exactly possible. Because I'd rather fine-tune a tight fit than be annoyed by an unrepairable lose fit. zozo-mag thats what im afraid of...printing a loose end part....  |
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Post by xiombarg on Dec 4, 2013 12:10:08 GMT -5
After reading your previous posts I realize I've overlooked the importance of having a tool such as the Caliper for this aspect of the hobby. I'll need to buy a useful plastic caliper at Harbor Freight. As for Tolerance: If it were up to me, I would try to print the exact diameter as Exactly possible. Because I'd rather fine-tune a tight fit than be annoyed by an unrepairable lose fit. zozo-mag That's true. It depends if you need friction tension, which if you do then I would go with exact measurements. Otherwise I allow a bit of tolerance if it's in an area that will not be easy to sand and tension isn't really needed. Most printing processes are not super accurate and will vary from one type of printing process to another. Most higher end processes will say that they print within 20 microns or less, and the resolution will affect the accuracy a bit, and some processes can warp ever so slightly. Somewhere on the site it will have the info. |
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Post by coldiron on Dec 4, 2013 17:25:37 GMT -5
A caliper is one of the best tools I ever bought. I picked up a nice digital one on amazon a while back for a fair price. It was accurate enough that I was able to build metal brackets to mount racing calipers to my car. So I had no room for error. I took precision measurement many years ago in highschool. I had been meaning to pick up some of these other measuring tools for a while, but they can be quite expensive. If I actually start making toys with the help of this 3d printer, I will likely invest in them to better design my products. Cheaper than buying a copy of solidworks or something.
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Post by xtrlowz75 on Dec 4, 2013 23:45:07 GMT -5
So when is someone going to 3D Print out some robot parts? Maybe like some actual parts from our favorite robots, missiles, weapons, a Dairugger sword, and maybe even some reproduced foam packing, or looks like foam packing. Then we need someone to replicate the booklets and boxes. If it can get to that point maybe we can reproduce a SG-01 Tetsujin-28 and all of us can have one for $300-$400 instead of 4 grand haha.  |
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Post by magengar on Dec 5, 2013 2:25:56 GMT -5
The actual Math is where I get lost. lol For the time being, however, the "tight fit" issue would come in handy when I cast a resin part that will have a cylindrical peg that goes into a round hole such as an armpit socket. I haven't dome any serious resin casting lately, and before I do I wanna continue studying the way sockets, ratchets, and pivot joints work so that I can cast a functional action-figure joint that will be strong enough to sustain the weight of the figure and keep a pose. If I can reproduce some Revoltech joints for stock spare joints I'll be a happy camper. Then I can graduate to reproducing spare plastic SOC parts!  zozo-mag After reading your previous posts I realize I've overlooked the importance of having a tool such as the Caliper for this aspect of the hobby. I'll need to buy a useful plastic caliper at Harbor Freight. As for Tolerance: If it were up to me, I would try to print the exact diameter as Exactly possible. Because I'd rather fine-tune a tight fit than be annoyed by an unrepairable lose fit. zozo-mag That's true. It depends if you need friction tension, which if you do then I would go with exact measurements. Otherwise I allow a bit of tolerance if it's in an area that will not be easy to sand and tension isn't really needed. Most printing processes are not super accurate and will vary from one type of printing process to another. Most higher end processes will say that they print within 20 microns or less, and the resolution will affect the accuracy a bit, and some processes can warp ever so slightly. Somewhere on the site it will have the info. |
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Post by mojacko on Dec 5, 2013 8:37:36 GMT -5
Then we need someone to replicate the booklets and boxes. If it can get to that point maybe we can reproduce a SG-01 Tetsujin-28 and all of us can have one for $300-$400 instead of 4 grand haha. actually you dont need to replicate booklets and boxes in a 3d printer, an ordinary 2d printer can do the job....lol  |
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Post by mojacko on Dec 6, 2013 12:12:03 GMT -5
im planning to use ponoko, what material should i get, if durability is essential, ive got SuperFine Plastic, Durable Fina Plastic and Durable Gloss Plastic ivory/black as materials to choose from.
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Post by xiombarg on Dec 6, 2013 19:55:52 GMT -5
im planning to use ponoko, what material should i get, if durability is essential, ive got SuperFine Plastic, Durable Fina Plastic and Durable Gloss Plastic ivory/black as materials to choose from. Just so you know, imaterialise.com is quite a bit cheaper and their prime gray material is awesome. But Ponoko is very helpful and if you've been working with them to solidify you model etc. they have a great service. For durability you don't want to use the white superfine plastic. The greenish durable fine plastic is excellent, but expensive. The gloss ivory/black is ok and not too expensive but doesn't capture small details really well. |
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