Post by magengar on Apr 1, 2011 10:55:43 GMT -5
Them resin objects in my previous post above
was just to get me started so I can learn how the
resin casting kit works.
Moving right along...
I managed to schqueeze out another casting,
this next one (shown below) is an original product
repro'ed from its original source; and my technique
used Here may be considered rather "unorthodox"
to the hobby...
And last, but not least, a surprise...
What're ya waiting for? Just Do it! ;D
Don't expect to cast The Perfect resin object
the first time around (if you Do, you're Godhead! lol).
Just take it one step at a time, and be patient.
The Only time you must Hurry is when you're
done stirring the resin mixture.
Once it's poured into the mold, you can watch
the resin change from clear to White, and it'll
cure rock-solid ten minutes later (if you're using
the Alumite Amazing Casting Resin brand).
The dreaded part of this hobby (I think) is
waiting for the rubber mold to be made, especially
the Brush-on liquid rubber types... but at least
it gives you good glove molds.
The RTV-type liquid mold-making rubber is best
for making two-part molds because you can
pour it around the object inside a mother-mold.
Soon as I get some RTV liquid rubber I will explain
and show you step-by-step how to prepare a
two-part mold setup, because That's when you'll
need to use clay as a mold base around the original
object which will be molded.
I'll be back with more goodies and projects.
Post by magengar on Apr 5, 2011 16:59:33 GMT -5
Here's some more goodies (products and tutorials)...Products, page 1...Products, page 2...
----------------------------Now, a tutorial about rubber molds.
Attention all you Vets, if I missed anything
or got something wrong in this tutorial,
PLEASE CORRECT ME! Thanks, and Enjoy...Some more advice...
...So far, I've had no problems with theAlumilite
If you follow the products' directions carefully,
and pay attention to your work, you'll come
away with impressive resin pieces and you'll
learn new skills in this craft.
----------------------Last, but not least, a little something I had
merely sculpted with clay....
I dunno yet what I'll do with this Koji head.
It's still in rough form after curing the clay.
I'll ad a thinner layer of clay to it and touch up
the detail nice-n-smooth so that I can cure
it again, and coat it in hard Plasti-Dip and use
it as a master prototype for casting a resin
copy of this head.
Stay tuned for more goodies...... ;D
Post by magengar on Apr 5, 2011 23:35:41 GMT -5
... yep, I'll rig up my printer so I can
print out HobbyLobby's ads for discounts on this stuff next time I go
Speaking of shopping, I had a schwEEt night at work:
I didn't do so much to help the servers and the bartender clean
up after a private party (my hands were full in my work area),
but for doing whatever I could to help they gave me a $27 TIP!!!
...tomorrow por la tarde, I'm headed to Hobby Lobby to shop
for some colorant dyes! ;D
Post by magengar on Apr 6, 2011 15:12:56 GMT -5
Matango Bangoooooooo! ;D
I was experimenting with These last night
after I got home from work...
Earlier this afternoon I went to Hobby Lobby
to score some more Release Agent in a bigger
4oz FULL bottle for $10.99.
(I'll still use the previous release agent which
I bought, but That bottle only comes less
than Half-full... Alumilite could've done better
by filling the bottle All The Way, but then what
can I expect for such a partially empty bottle
of release agent at $4.99.
I also bought a 1oz bottle of Alumilite Red dye;
the dye is added to Part A of the resin casting kit,
as in 1 to 20 drops of the color dye per 1oz of
the resin mix Part A and stir it to get the red color
... and THEN you mix it with Part B altogether into
your 3rd cup to get the entire resin mixture which
will now become colored.
This will give you a resin casting of whatever
permanent color you choose.
Say, this red dye added to the resin mixture,
it would give me a Red solid resin casting
such as a Pilder body or Mazinger's chest plates
(without having to paint them red).
I'd like to find some metallic silver, and gold
dyes in droplet form or powder form for
my metallic parts.
There is also a Pearlizing dye to make a
"metallic white" texture, as well.
I hope the add-in color dyes will be easier
than painting the inside of the mold, which is
what RJer Bourno
did for my resin
Brain Condors (I gotta send you pics of them!).
If you paint
the inside of the mold, ya gotta
make sure every detail impression is covered
with the paint; or at least just the areas you
only want to paint.... this is the advantage
to painting the inside of a mold before pouring
the resin. So if you cast a Mazinger head and
you want a permanent grey Crown, then paint
the crown areas grey; and Yellow for the
ear-spikes; and black for the mouth vents.
Damn, I haven't even started casting Anything
yet with the new stuff I bought last weekend.
I need to find some corrugated plastic sheets
to make some mold boxes.
I wanna cast a much better LeReve Pilder than
my first one, using my High Strength 3 mold rubber
which takes 72 hours to cure.
I'll keep you posted on more Casting news.
Meanwhile, check out everything you can at
Alumilite's website www.alumilite.com/index.cfm
Post by magengar on May 3, 2011 15:38:02 GMT -5
That depends on the robot and its detail.
Mazinger's easy because he's just a mere robot.
Tetsujin28 is easy as well. Their designs are simple.
Jat Jaguar: I'd have to wear a wet-suit and just
make the head to fit me as a mask...
Great Mazinger: would be a challenge...
Raydeen: would send me through the ceiling...
Dairugger XV: I'll jump under a bus. ;D
I've got the "...Big Idea" thread updated,
check it out.
What sorcery is this!!!!
Can you do it with any type of figure
Post by magengar on Jan 19, 2013 1:35:43 GMT -5
...they have all the materials you ever need.
By the way, I'm bumping this thread so we don't lose it.
And, I still need to finish the Pilder... it's too cold for me
to resume work on it indoors right now, but it will be my first
priority as soon as the weather starts to warm up.
Post by magengar on Jun 16, 2013 1:25:17 GMT -5
BUMP!!! I wanna raise awareness that this thread exists!
Now that I have your attention, my problem is:
I have a DC Batman figure that I want to modify to become
an enemy robot for my MC Mazinger-Z model kit
(he's tall enough for my SOC's as well!)...
...BUTT, I do not wanna destroy the actual Batman figure,
but would rather reproduce it as resin copies to make
other enemy robots from it.Problem:
the Batman's action figure body is sealed
as in NO SCREWS to detach so that I can take it apart
and reproduce the body parts.Now, my question is:
How can I split open the Batman figure's body
without wrecking it?
Anyone here has ever done that to a sealed action figure?
If So, Let me know how you made out and what you did.
Thanks in advance.
Post by magengar on Jun 24, 2013 1:44:12 GMT -5
Thanks Eternal, bro! That's a good place to start.
I browsed the categories at that website and found the exact method
for cracking the body open
, scroll down in this page here...www.angelfire.com/mech/jinsaotome/GeneralGuide.html
...I'm gonna have to be VERY careful with the technique described
in that tutorial. The DC Batman's main body shows almost No seams,
but I can see the part lines as though the body were cast from
a two-part mold.
The forelimbs will be no problem... the material is softer at the joints.
I can use a hair dryer or boiling water to soften the joints and
remove the pins. Even the heat from my laptop can make them soft!