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Post by TheMazingerZ on Mar 30, 2011 22:11:49 GMT -5
Can't wait to see them! This thread has been bookmarked!!! }D
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Post by magengar on Mar 31, 2011 16:44:42 GMT -5
See what ya think... Page 1... Page 2... Page 3... Page 4... I'll try to buy more resin kits this weekend so I can start doing some serious work. More schtuff later............... zozo-Mag
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Post by magengar on Apr 1, 2011 10:55:43 GMT -5
Them resin objects in my previous post above was just to get me started so I can learn how the resin casting kit works. Moving right along... I managed to schqueeze out another casting, this next one (shown below) is an original product repro'ed from its original source; and my technique used Here may be considered rather "unorthodox" to the hobby... -------- And last, but not least, a surprise... ;D ---------- What're ya waiting for? Just Do it! ;D Don't expect to cast The Perfect resin object the first time around (if you Do, you're Godhead! lol). Just take it one step at a time, and be patient. The Only time you must Hurry is when you're done stirring the resin mixture. Once it's poured into the mold, you can watch the resin change from clear to White, and it'll cure rock-solid ten minutes later (if you're using the Alumite Amazing Casting Resin brand). The dreaded part of this hobby (I think) is waiting for the rubber mold to be made, especially the Brush-on liquid rubber types... but at least it gives you good glove molds. The RTV-type liquid mold-making rubber is best for making two-part molds because you can pour it around the object inside a mother-mold. Soon as I get some RTV liquid rubber I will explain and show you step-by-step how to prepare a two-part mold setup, because That's when you'll need to use clay as a mold base around the original object which will be molded. I'll be back with more goodies and projects. zozo-Mag
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Post by magengar on Apr 5, 2011 16:59:33 GMT -5
Here's some more goodies (products and tutorials)... Products, page 1...Products, page 2...---------------------------- Now, a tutorial about rubber molds. Attention all you Vets, if I missed anything or got something wrong in this tutorial, PLEASE CORRECT ME! Thanks, and Enjoy...Some more advice......So far, I've had no problems with the Alumilite brand products. If you follow the products' directions carefully, and pay attention to your work, you'll come away with impressive resin pieces and you'll learn new skills in this craft. ---------------------- Last, but not least, a little something I had merely sculpted with clay....I dunno yet what I'll do with this Koji head. It's still in rough form after curing the clay. I'll ad a thinner layer of clay to it and touch up the detail nice-n-smooth so that I can cure it again, and coat it in hard Plasti-Dip and use it as a master prototype for casting a resin copy of this head. ----------------- Stay tuned for more goodies...... ;D zozo-Mag
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Post by bourno on Apr 5, 2011 20:38:52 GMT -5
I have been buying my casting materials from Smooth-On. Remember to go to the hobby lobby website ads for.their 40% off coupon they have every other week
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Post by magengar on Apr 5, 2011 23:35:41 GMT -5
Thanks, Bourno... yep, I'll rig up my printer so I can print out HobbyLobby's ads for discounts on this stuff next time I go shopping. Speaking of shopping, I had a schwEEt night at work: I didn't do so much to help the servers and the bartender clean up after a private party (my hands were full in my work area), but for doing whatever I could to help they gave me a $27 TIP!!! Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo............ ...tomorrow por la tarde, I'm headed to Hobby Lobby to shop for some colorant dyes! ;D zozo-Mag
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Post by magengar on Apr 6, 2011 15:12:56 GMT -5
Matango Bangoooooooo! ;D I was experimenting with These last night after I got home from work... ...and... ------------ Earlier this afternoon I went to Hobby Lobby to score some more Release Agent in a bigger 4oz FULL bottle for $10.99. ( I'll still use the previous release agent which I bought, but That bottle only comes less than Half-full... Alumilite could've done better by filling the bottle All The Way, but then what can I expect for such a partially empty bottle of release agent at $4.99.) I also bought a 1oz bottle of Alumilite Red dye; the dye is added to Part A of the resin casting kit, as in 1 to 20 drops of the color dye per 1oz of the resin mix Part A and stir it to get the red color ... and THEN you mix it with Part B altogether into your 3rd cup to get the entire resin mixture which will now become colored. This will give you a resin casting of whatever permanent color you choose. Say, this red dye added to the resin mixture, it would give me a Red solid resin casting such as a Pilder body or Mazinger's chest plates (without having to paint them red). I'd like to find some metallic silver, and gold dyes in droplet form or powder form for my metallic parts. There is also a Pearlizing dye to make a "metallic white" texture, as well. I hope the add-in color dyes will be easier than painting the inside of the mold, which is what RJer Bourno did for my resin Brain Condors (I gotta send you pics of them!). If you paint the inside of the mold, ya gotta make sure every detail impression is covered with the paint; or at least just the areas you only want to paint.... this is the advantage to painting the inside of a mold before pouring the resin. So if you cast a Mazinger head and you want a permanent grey Crown, then paint the crown areas grey; and Yellow for the ear-spikes; and black for the mouth vents. Damn, I haven't even started casting Anything yet with the new stuff I bought last weekend. I need to find some corrugated plastic sheets to make some mold boxes. I wanna cast a much better LeReve Pilder than my first one, using my High Strength 3 mold rubber which takes 72 hours to cure. I'll keep you posted on more Casting news. Meanwhile, check out everything you can at Alumilite's website www.alumilite.com/index.cfmzozo-Mag
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Post by magengar on Apr 28, 2011 16:44:41 GMT -5
The hover rotor continues in the "My Big Idea" thread. ----------------
USB connectors + Resin (robot heads) = Gives me an interesting idea! ;D
zozo-Mag
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Post by seele1 on Apr 30, 2011 19:51:21 GMT -5
What sorcery is this!!!! Can you do it with any type of figure !?
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Post by magengar on May 3, 2011 15:38:02 GMT -5
That depends on the robot and its detail. Mazinger's easy because he's just a mere robot. Tetsujin28 is easy as well. Their designs are simple. Jat Jaguar: I'd have to wear a wet-suit and just make the head to fit me as a mask... Great Mazinger: would be a challenge... Raydeen: would send me through the ceiling... Dairugger XV: I'll jump under a bus. ;D I've got the "...Big Idea" thread updated, check it out. zozo-Mag What sorcery is this!!!! Can you do it with any type of figure !?
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Post by seele1 on May 3, 2011 17:39:35 GMT -5
Wich one is that one? On which thread?
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Post by lexcars2007 on Jul 31, 2012 1:12:26 GMT -5
where do you buy the materials ? I can not seem to find them at any of my craft stores ?
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Post by lexcars2007 on Jul 31, 2012 1:35:40 GMT -5
OK I wrote the post BEFORE I finished reading.....Dumb ass....but my hobby shop didnt have it, I'll try a bigger store, or ask to have it ordered... I WILL BUILD A EVIL MACHINDER.....some day
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Post by magengar on Jan 19, 2013 1:35:43 GMT -5
Visit www.hobbylobby.com...they have all the materials you ever need. By the way, I'm bumping this thread so we don't lose it. And, I still need to finish the Pilder... it's too cold for me to resume work on it indoors right now, but it will be my first priority as soon as the weather starts to warm up. zozo-mag
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Post by magengar on Jun 16, 2013 1:25:17 GMT -5
BUMP!!! I wanna raise awareness that this thread exists! Now that I have your attention, my problem is: I have a DC Batman figure that I want to modify to become an enemy robot for my MC Mazinger-Z model kit (he's tall enough for my SOC's as well!)... ...BUTT, I do not wanna destroy the actual Batman figure, but would rather reproduce it as resin copies to make other enemy robots from it. Problem: the Batman's action figure body is sealed, as in NO SCREWS to detach so that I can take it apart and reproduce the body parts. Now, my question is:How can I split open the Batman figure's body without wrecking it? Anyone here has ever done that to a sealed action figure? If So, Let me know how you made out and what you did. Thanks in advance. zozo-mag
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 23, 2013 17:53:20 GMT -5
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Jun 23, 2013 21:10:27 GMT -5
FYI this guy does great work but he is NOT well liked (by a lot of people, their words, not mine).
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 23, 2013 22:57:57 GMT -5
Did they give any reasons why? His work? His attitude? Anything you can share? }D
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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Jun 24, 2013 1:37:54 GMT -5
I won't go into heavy detail as i was more trying to caution people, not stir up anything.
A lot of the threads have seemed to disappear or have been locked/closed. You can run a google search and stuff might come up.
Basically I have heard he has his fans and his haters but his haters aren't because of his work, some of its about things he did whether they were a joke or not.
He caused quite a stir over on tfw back in January (regarding a supposed incident with amazon uk and mp prime) and there are a few other forums where people think he is a bit too arrogant or narcissistic or something to that effect.
I'm sure there's more but again, other peoples' words/experiences. I don't think anyone is denying the quality of the work that he does but he is also not the only hardcore customizer out there.
TFW2005 for example has a whole forum section dedicated to customizes from beginner to high end, and some of those guys don't even hang there, there are forums that just cater to high end toy customizers and modelers etc.
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Post by magengar on Jun 24, 2013 1:44:12 GMT -5
Thanks Eternal, bro! That's a good place to start. I browsed the categories at that website and found the exact method for cracking the body open, scroll down in this page here... www.angelfire.com/mech/jinsaotome/GeneralGuide.html...I'm gonna have to be VERY careful with the technique described in that tutorial. The DC Batman's main body shows almost No seams, but I can see the part lines as though the body were cast from a two-part mold. The forelimbs will be no problem... the material is softer at the joints. I can use a hair dryer or boiling water to soften the joints and remove the pins. Even the heat from my laptop can make them soft! zozo-mag
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