Preventive Maintenance for plastics and Cure

[00silvergt]

Hi all, I notice that in the past few weeks there have been some chatter about plastics turning yellow. In order to help reduce the threads and to keep our board less cluttered, I decided to write up something about this matter.

First of all, yellowing plastics are caused by a chemical reaction between the three most common plastics used by the Toy manufacturers (polypropylene, styrene, and ABS) and UV and heat.

Basically, these three plastics have a tendency to breakdown and discolor from heat and UV rays. Most manufacturers add a blue dye to the plastic to offset the yellow color, but the reaction eventually overpowers this and now you got a yellowed toy.

Let's talk about prevention, since 1 oz of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Go to your favorite auto parts store or Walmart or wherever and get some Armor-All or similar product, look specifically for UV protection. Make sure it is safe for plastics so that chemical will not do some yellowing or worse, dissolve the plastic. Incidentally this works great for protecting and to some extent restoring rubber and vinyls as well. Those of you who have the Bandai Kamen Rider Kuuga 12" know of the deterioration the black suit has. These protectorants would help this as well.

Keep your toys away from heat, heat will accelerate the chemical degradation. Do not keep your toys in an attic, basement or anywhere that will have drastic changes in temperature-extreme heat and extreme cold. Do not display your toys in rooms with sunlight or fluorescent lighting.

Okay, now that you know how to keep this from happening, what should you do if the damage is already done?


There are snake oils and witches brews all over the market when it comes to fixing this type of problem. Most of them are frustratingly disappointing. I've tried, rubs, oils, bleach, etc. None of of them worked well. Especially when the plastic is heavily yellowed. However, one day while cruising around the aisles of my local Auto Zone, I found a kit that restores yellowed headlights for $11.95.

When I opened the kit, I discovered that I paid, 11.95 for a couple of pieces of sand paper and a buffing compound. But amazingly it worked, especially on the yellowing of my Grendizer saucer.

But you don't need to pay 11.95, 9.95 or even 7.95. You can fix your toy for pennies...well sort of.

You need:

1 240 grit Sand paper
1 400 grit Sand paper
1 800 grit Sand paper
1 1000 grit Sand paper
1 1200 grit Sand paper
1 1600 grit Sand paper

1 plastic polishing compound - Try Tap Plastics they have chemically for Acrylics that works fine or Paint to match the color.

1 microfiber polishing cloth

Sand the piece with the 240 grit sand paper until all the yellowing has been sanded off. Then progressively sand the piece with the 400, 800, 1000, 1200, 1600. Each finer grit would essentially remove the scratches caused by the former. Then use the polishing compound to restore the shine or your can paint.

[mpchi]

www.thetf.net/forum_posts-TID-13204-PN-1.htm

This might be the answer a lot of us has been looking for...

H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) solution + sunlight + a big glass jar

[00silvergt]

I have not tried using Hydrogen peroxide to fix yellowing plastics. From the look of that thread from that link, it works well after two hours. I will need to try that.

[00silvergt]

Ok, I've been doing some reading about H2O2 (H2O with an extra molecule of Oxygen, making the compound change to Hydrogen Peroxide) and cleaning yellowing plastics. The article that was linked by MPCHI states that they have been using 35% H2O2, this is not the stuff you buy at your local drugstore. At this concentration, you would have to look for it on the internet or buy it here, or Here or Here unfortunately you would have to buy 5 Gallons of it for $65.00. I guess if you are cleaning a lot of toys that can make economical sense. Also at that concentration, the H2O2 will not last very long, it will evaporate so it is not something you can keep in the closet and use as needed.
However, I've also read that you can use the cheaper, less expensive 3%, but it is not as effective and takes much more time.

Also heed the warnings, even the linked resource warns that they are only on the early stages of experimentation. Also, note and heed the all warnings about H2O2 that they posted, at this concentration, if inhaled, H2O2 can be deadly to humans, animals, or life in general, if you have kids, sand instead or keep this in a VERY SAFE place.

I've read about the chemistry that goes on with this process, now I sucked at HS chemistry and I dropped the class in college, so maybe one of you more learned about this can add your input, but H2O2 at this concentration acts like dyeing agent. Much like your girlfriend/wife would use to get that pretty "bleach blonde" look. So it is not changing or is acting as an Oxidizer, the composition of the ruined plastic. It is merely bleaching the yellowed parts.

Thanks, Mpchi for the contributions, I love it when new ideas come across!

[mpchi]

No problem. Hope with some testings of guys on this board, this will prove to be a real solution remedying the yellowing that had plagued us all for the past couple decades. And it looks like some guys tried a much less % H2O2 solution and still get results. But regardless, its still something that can harm your skin in low concentration, and everyone planning to give it a try should definitely wear some good gloves and eye protection before proceeding. Definitely a NO NO for any skin contact.

[00silvergt]

Not to mention, make sure it is well ventilated and/or your are wearing the proper mask. Remember inhalation of this can kill you, or pets, wife, kids, etc.

[bt1]

Dec 3, 2008 17:36:19 GMT -5 00silvergt said:

Not to mention, make sure it is well ventilated and/or your are wearing the proper mask. Remember inhalation of this can kill you, or pets, wife, kids, etc.

Alright, you've talked me out of it. If I need it in the future I may give it a try, but with 2 young kids in the house at the moment, well - not worth the risk just to "test" the results.

[00silvergt]

Dec 3, 2008 17:50:50 GMT -5 bt1 said:

Dec 3, 2008 17:36:19 GMT -5 00silvergt said:

Not to mention, make sure it is well ventilated and/or your are wearing the proper mask. Remember inhalation of this can kill you, or pets, wife, kids, etc.

Alright, you've talked me out of it. If I need it in the future I may give it a try, but with 2 young kids in the house at the moment, well - not worth the risk just to "test" the results.

LOL, I wasn't trying to talk you out of trying it, just don't want you to do a blood vendetta on me, mpchi or the board if something were to happen.

Seriously, though, with two young kids, I think you made the right choice. I have 3 young kids, ages 7, 5, and 3. No toy is worth their safety in my opinion and will sell my lot to protect my kids. I keep my denatured alcohol, lime, etc. in a locked cabinet in the garage and my "ninner" locked in a metal safe under my bed inside another metal safe with the ammo in another metal safe. ;D

[bt1]

You are absolutely right, no toy/anything is worth endangering youself/loved ones. I was saying in the other thread that my current toys are fine right now but had a couple of junk vintage pieces I could try it on. But after reading how dangerous this stuff is - it's so not worth the risks/hassle for me.

But it definitely looks like it does the job, so nice to know it can be an option if need be (with the proper precautions as stated ).

[00silvergt]

Dec 3, 2008 18:15:55 GMT -5 bt1 said:

You are absolutely right, no toy/anything is worth endangering youself/loved ones. I was saying in the other thread that my current toys are fine right now but had a couple of junk vintage pieces I could try it on. But after reading how dangerous this stuff is - it's so not worth the risks/hassle for me.

But it definitely looks like it does the job, so nice to know it can be an option if need be (with the proper precautions as stated ).

Well, there is always the way I suggested...LOL I know, I'm invisible...LOL

It is relatively safe other than getting sand filings all over the place, I was dumb enough to do it while sitting on the couch and got that stuff all over my wife's covers...that can be dangerous to your/my health! LOL

[bt1]

;D Hehe, I didn't ignore your method - I've done the sanding on a junk plastic Gredizer Spazer (luckily in my workroom so the wife wouldn't notice any mess). It works well - you just have to give it the elbow grease and keep working your way up to higher grits - but the little nooks and crannies are not too easy to get too (I gave up looking for perfection)

[00silvergt]

Dec 3, 2008 18:30:06 GMT -5 bt1 said:

;D Hehe, I didn't ignore your method - I've done the sanding on a junk plastic Gredizer Spazer (luckily in my workroom so the wife wouldn't notice any mess). It works well - you just have to give it the elbow grease and keep working your way up to higher grits - but the little nooks and crannies are not too easy to get too (I gave up looking for perfection)

Same here, those darn crevaces can be a PITA! I will try to spray it with 3% (safe) H2O2 and brush it off like I've read for white plastic lawn furniture and see if that works.

[Nyonk]

hi guys.. just want to share this H2O2 experimental i've done..
this is my animal test subject shall we call it MOUSE-01
before - 15:00

and this is after - 18:00


the next morning this is my bigger animal test subject, lets call it BUFFALO-01
before:

after:


before:

after:


before:

after:


and my conclusion
the good:
1. to use this H2O2 is pretty simple, in my country i can buy 1 ltr for about $1.
2. just sink all your plastic toys in big jar filled with H2O2, and put it under direct sunlight, it works
3.we cant expect it to be clean white 100% after all these years it been trough, but it still helps alot.

the BAD,
1. be very carefull not to touch the liquid,
2. this H2O2 way to clean your toy is only good for toys with no decals or stickers, dont use this method if you dont sure you can make or buy the repro stickers, (FIY i remake the whole buffalo stickers/decals)
3. dont put in any metal because it will excellerate rust
4. oh yeah, if you dont have guts to dissamble your toy, forget this method, it will be stupid to sink the whole toy.

i think thats all, if anybody would like to add or comment, please correct me if im wrong.

btw, this is what happen to your skin
15:10

it will dissapear within 2 hours, no need to amputate.. thank god.
16:00

[mpchi]

AWESOME nyonk.

What % H2O2 solution did you used? Also, I've noticed that you had not soaked the plastic in the H2O2 in a extended period of time. It might yield even better whitening results if you have it in longer hours. Though given the yellowing on the toy is not bad, it may not be necessary.

This is indeed a good experiment.

[quinjester]

This is some fascinating stuff. Yellowed plastic has always been one of those dreaded misfortunes; it's neat to see there's light at the end of the tunnel, even if said tunnel is filled with horrible, noxious fumes.

I wonder if it'll take care of cigarette smell too. Heh.

[Otaru Ikari]

nyonk that was one great science experiment

[admin1 aka Ed]

Let me reiterate what has been said. Heat, heat, heat is bad bad bad for your toys. Keep the temp below 90 F or so. It will kill your toys quicker than anything. Popy brittle blue degrades super fast with heat. Many of the white plastics become yellow.

THEN:

***Wear gloves or wipe the toy chrome clean after you enjoy vintage toys. The finger oils will eventually degrade the chrome perminently.

***Consider using mylar book cover plastic to wrap boxes. This helps keep oxygen away from the toys which degrades them slowly. It is preventitive. This plastic also cuts down on scratching, moisture problems, BUGS, box printing from sticking to surfaces, and ease of reorganization. PLUS it adds an extra shine to make old boxes appear newer.

*** Note that many of the Popy small "rubber" characters eat away at styrafoam. Wrap them in plastic/mylar if you want them to store well. This chemical melt CAN just be peeled away from the rubber. Take your time.

*** Consider silver fish and roaches a real threat. Always consider Borax or an insecticide around your storage area.

**** BONUS hint. Keep Uhu stick or a traditional kindergarten glue stick handy. You can apply it to stickers that want to peel or come off. So far as I can tell, it is intert and dries clear.

Ed

[macrossninja]

Right on......thanks for the info EVERYONE! I have no toys right now that are yellowed and I hope they stay that way. Question though.......are "newer" plastics (such as the Yamato Macross Version 2 VF-1s) going to be prone to yellowing? Does anyone know....or will we just have to wait to find out?

[Otaru Ikari]

Not sure about current yamato line but the old VF-1A 1/60 on mine has the yellowing issue and happens only on half part of the valk, so that means they changed the type of the plastic somewhere in between production.

[magengar]

Wow, I sure wish I could use that H202 solution on my teeth,
as much as I smoke and drink coffee.
(REALLY! I'm dead-serious!) ;D

Thanks for the tips, guys!

zozo-Magengar