|
Post by cholocarwash on Apr 26, 2010 4:18:38 GMT -5
actually the paint on the chest was unaffected by theH2O2. colored plastics don't work as well. you can remove the discoloration but you can't remove the sun damage if there is any.
|
|
dants
Junior Robot
Posts: 3
|
Post by dants on Dec 1, 2010 0:03:22 GMT -5
I already tried the h202 a year ago. Well, it does work...temporarily. I noticed that after maybe 2 months my experimented toys turned yellow brownish or worse than it has ever been. So i stopped using the h202 cause i was looking for a more permanent fix which i doubt there ever will be.
Another catch is that it only works for white or light colored parts. Now, if there are other colors in the same toy then you are bound to sacrifice them as well.
|
|
|
Post by jasonatomic on Jul 25, 2011 16:49:54 GMT -5
Thanks to this thread I'm doing the hydrogen peroxide soak w/ exposure to sunlight on a really rare '70's Lord of the Rings figure. (I know, not a robot) I started it over the weekend and can already see results!
|
|
|
Post by mrhorikawa on Jan 20, 2012 2:59:36 GMT -5
not exactly a white plastic turning yellow problem here, but maybe you have an answer for me... the bandai vinyl robocon I have has the plastic see through chest cover turning sticky and sweaty, I guess a chemical reaction from the softeners in the plastic. is there a way to stop this process?? thanks!!
|
|
|
Post by KingboyD on Jan 20, 2012 9:47:44 GMT -5
not exactly a white plastic turning yellow problem here, but maybe you have an answer for me... the bandai vinyl robocon I have has the plastic see through chest cover turning sticky and sweaty, I guess a chemical reaction from the softeners in the plastic. is there a way to stop this process?? thanks!! See here: skullbrain.org/bb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36084
|
|
|
Post by mrhorikawa on Jan 21, 2012 9:09:45 GMT -5
Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by xtrlowz75 on Jan 28, 2012 18:33:56 GMT -5
The correct proxide to whiten your yellowing or yellowed parts is also known as Proxide 30. You can buy it at most local beauty supply stores. It is used to dye hair blond, or other wise known as bleaching. You usually submerge the item in a clear glass or plastic container and leave it in the sun for a few hours. Then you should rinse it with regular water immediatly when you take it out. You should wear gloves, and do not leave the item in the proxide or sun longer than a few hours. It really does work. If checked on periodically you can get away with some white ittems with other colors. I left my GI Joe Storm Shadow and Ace in for about 45 min in the sun, took them out and they looked brand new. It did not fade the red or grey colors. I also put in a discolored blue Cobra Commander and it made him look new after about 30min. But items with decals you need to carefully remove the decals or get a repro set (if possible) before submersion. So you can potentially clean or restore any toy to new looking if you keep close observation while in the sun. Just remember pulling the toy out to soon is much better than leaving it in to long. Too long can damage the item or fade the other colors.
|
|
|
Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 12, 2012 0:32:57 GMT -5
Just ordered some 35% H2O2. Will be doing some tests once it gets here... }D
|
|
|
Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 13, 2012 19:30:01 GMT -5
Okay, I tried the beauty supply hydrogen peroxide (40) with and without Oxyclean. It worked okay. However, the parts did not come out as whitened as I thought they would, specially when using the #40 hydrogen peroxide (which is about a 12%). But the thing that bugged me the most was that the parts kept floating up and down, many times turning upside down with the yellowed area down. I had to keep going outside every 10 minutes to turn them the right way!
I think I'm just going to paint them white and be done with it. Oh well, at least I can chuck this one to experience... ;D
}D
|
|
|
Post by xtrlowz75 on Jun 14, 2012 1:45:57 GMT -5
You need to leave it alone in the sun for an hour or so. Do not move or touch. Now, another way I have used is to put the peroxide 30 in a spray bottle and spray it on paper towels while wrapping the item, kinda like paper mache it. Make sure its soaked and give it plenty of sun. This works great on large items. Do not forget your gloves! But when doing this in a glass or paper towel/spray method, you've got to leave it undisturbed for an hour or more. Oh and use the non-oxyclean. The regular peroxide 30 (not 40) works great. I just whitened an entire 1978 Star Wars Tie Fighter and it looks like new.
|
|
|
Post by TheMazingerZ on Jun 14, 2012 16:53:13 GMT -5
I left it in the sun for 7 hours, using peroxide 40, which is even stronger than 30. Didn't work. I'm already getting ready to paint it as I type... }\
|
|
|
Post by xtrlowz75 on Jun 15, 2012 1:33:58 GMT -5
What exactly are you whitening by the way? And is it really white white or an off white color? An off white will never come totally clean/white.
|
|
|
Post by pryzmm on Jun 16, 2012 9:40:27 GMT -5
wow thank you guys for sharing your experiences .. im sure one day ill visit this topic again to "cure" some of my yellowing toys ...
|
|
|
Post by magengar on Jun 18, 2012 18:48:41 GMT -5
Here's my crazy question:
Anyone ever tried cleaning their white toy parts with Pepsodent? (Denture cleansing solution)
...because, if it really works, I'll stock up on some for my toys...... ............and, for Me. ;D
(After I get all my teeth knocked out. lol) ;D
zozo-mag
|
|
|
Post by lexcars2007 on Aug 8, 2012 22:52:35 GMT -5
Try a Mr. Clean, magic eraser, make sure it is wet, and polish the yellow out, this will work if the damage is not to extreme... auto parts stores also sell a clear headlight cleaning kit, as stated earlier, might be the safer way to go......
|
|
|
Post by thatbatmanguy on Sept 21, 2012 22:49:19 GMT -5
I'm the new guy here fellas. But, I've used the peroxide 3% with oxyclean and leave the parts in the sun for about 1 - 2 hours. Worked really good on a Micronaut Hydro Copter and the white parts to a Micronaut MEL. These parts were HEAVY yellowed. They are bright WHITE now. This was done over 3 years ago and they are STILL white. You can also mix this stuff up into a paste and rub it on the parts. I read that was how some people cleaned up old Commodore 64 computers.
Pepsodent doesn't work. So, don't waste your money. I already did that for you.
I'm not to keen on Mr. Clean magic eraser either. It does work. But, that's because it has formaldehyde in it. That's it's secret.
Bob
|
|
|
Post by Robot Lover/Fighter on Sept 2, 2013 16:25:05 GMT -5
Let the whitening begin
|
|
|
Post by seth2700 on Nov 17, 2014 18:35:17 GMT -5
I know its not a robot but I submerged 2 kenner snowtrooper and a leia in 3% peroxide for a weekend(cant remember exactly how long as this was a few months ago) and for all 3 the bodies and head whitened good but the arms and legs were still cream colored so I did a bit of research and the didfferent parts are different mixes of plastics and some just break down worse than others oh and the peroxide had no effect on the black details of the trooper(I also submerged 2 darth vaders to see the effect on black plastic and his coloered chest no effect either)
|
|
|
Post by deculture on Apr 19, 2016 6:58:10 GMT -5
Hi everyone, fresh account here, just got approved.
I've read somewhere about whitening toothpaste (colgate) and baking soda being mixed together in a paste and then being applied to yellowed ares of toys may help lessen said yellowing. Has anyone tried this before?
|
|
driph
Rusty Robot
Posts: 59
|
Post by driph on Apr 22, 2016 17:40:25 GMT -5
Hi everyone, fresh account here, just got approved. I've read somewhere about whitening toothpaste (colgate) and baking soda being mixed together in a paste and then being applied to yellowed ares of toys may help lessen said yellowing. Has anyone tried this before? I'm not sure if it'd be doing anything chemically, but that would act as a light abrasive. I suppose it would remove surface yellowing by removing the surface itself, exposing raw material (which is basically how the toothpaste whitens your teeth).
|
|