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Post by quinjester on Dec 12, 2008 11:55:19 GMT -5
Wow, I sure wish I could use that H202 solution on my teeth, as much as I smoke and drink coffee. (REALLY! I'm dead-serious!) ;D Thanks for the tips, guys! zozo-Magengar What do you think the whitening agent is in the average whitening strip?  (hint: It's H2O2) |
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 12, 2008 12:32:50 GMT -5
Some people even gargle H2O2, but not the 30-35%...
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Post by quinjester on Dec 12, 2008 12:42:33 GMT -5
Yeah. That would be ... well that would be a catastrophically bad idea.
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Post by mage82ph on Dec 22, 2008 9:59:09 GMT -5
Is it difficult to acquire one there in the States? Or is it also over the counter like here in our country? Be careful though, every plastic is different yours might react differently to H2o2, and you might not like it.  |
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Post by 00silvergt on Dec 22, 2008 22:32:20 GMT -5
Is it difficult to acquire one there in the States? Or is it also over the counter like here in our country? Be careful though, every plastic is different yours might react differently to H2o2, and you might not like it. Are you kidding, you can't even get sudephedrine here in the US without walking up the counter. We can buy 3% solutions, but not the 35%. Even if we can get it, we have to pay lot + some hazardous material charge. I know in some countries you can even buy antibiotics right out of the counter. Here many things need a prescription. |
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Post by zephyranthes on Feb 4, 2009 3:15:05 GMT -5
Is the 3% solution too diluted to have an effect on plastic discoloration?
According to the linked thread, it will take a longer time and may not be as effective.
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Post by darylcav on Feb 4, 2009 12:40:45 GMT -5
This H2O2 stuff is amazing. I want to try this on a yellowed Jetfire, if it works on that it really is a miracle cure.
Also I wonder if this will also prevent the plastic from re-yellowing later.
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Post by 00silvergt on Mar 2, 2009 23:37:48 GMT -5
Is the 3% solution too diluted to have an effect on plastic discoloration? According to the linked thread, it will take a longer time and may not be as effective. According to the linked thread, it will take a longer time and may not be as effective. |
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Post by 00silvergt on Mar 2, 2009 23:39:00 GMT -5
This H2O2 stuff is amazing. I want to try this on a yellowed Jetfire, if it works on that it really is a miracle cure. Also I wonder if this will also prevent the plastic from re-yellowing later. Nothing prevents that other than keeping the toys well, away from heat, Flourescent light, sunlight, oxygen, etc. They will all eventually corrode and yellow over time. Depending on the quality of plastic and composition of the plastic. |
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Post by recca74 on Apr 23, 2009 15:36:27 GMT -5
This H2O2 stuff is amazing. I want to try this on a yellowed Jetfire, if it works on that it really is a miracle cure. Also I wonder if this will also prevent the plastic from re-yellowing later. Nothing prevents that other than keeping the toys well, away from heat, Flourescent light, sunlight, oxygen, etc. They will all eventually corrode and yellow over time. Depending on the quality of plastic and composition of the plastic. That's very true unfortunately. There is one preventative product, however, that might help those who have sun-soaked display rooms. Gunze Sangyo makes something called Mr Super Clear UV Cut for plastic models in Gloss and Matte. I believe it's supposed to protect plastic models and paint jobs from UV rays and things of that nature. I have some that I'm going to try on one of my resin figures at first opportunity. As a scale-modeler (Gunpla, resin), I am positive that this is safe for most plastic types ( PVC, ABS, Styrene, etc). I've seen Hobbyists in mags such as Hobby Japan, Model Graphix, and Dengeki Hobby have used Mr Top Coat and Mr Super Clear on models and toys alike. Hope this helps a bit.  |
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Post by garu525 on Apr 26, 2009 17:56:28 GMT -5
How about the lights used on display cases? I used to have a 20 Watt Halogen in my cases but it tends to get hot, so I used a LED light. Is Halogen too hot and will damage them or I'm just tripping?
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Post by mage82ph on May 8, 2009 22:59:06 GMT -5
Halogen lamps are widely used in museums and displays they provide excellent ligthing effects, but they should be placed within a significant distance or else the heat will definitely kill your collection, especially for lamps placed inside closed cabinets. LED lamps are okay, they are safer because they do not produce as much heat as halogen but this is because they do not provide the same amount of lighting, plus the effect is less than that of a halogen bulb. I think LEDs consume less electricity too.  |
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Post by garu525 on May 10, 2009 19:13:26 GMT -5
Thanks,
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Post by magengar on Jun 27, 2009 14:47:20 GMT -5
Unless you wanna re-create your own Mazinger-Z "Breast Of Fire" effect,
you Don't wanna use Halogens anywhere near your figures; especially
in close quarters... the heat would raise your electric bill, be too intense,
and possibly discolor certain figures.
With the light stationary, it may seem harmless at first... but the light will sit
there for a long time-- concentrated on your display, thus gradually applying
heat against your figures... they begin to "frown"... then they'll look "tired"
...weeks or months later you'll suddenly notice "Mazinger fried them". ;D
zozo-Magengar
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Post by Watari on Nov 11, 2009 3:36:40 GMT -5
Just came across this thread, will try the H202 solution on this baby:  Store-owners: This is why you never display your merchandise on a window where there's direct sunlight ;D Hopefully none of the electronic gimmicks are hard-wired to any of the plastic parts, or else I'm screwed. Nyonk, can you please PM me the store where you got the H202 solution Thanks! |
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Post by cholocarwash on Nov 11, 2009 18:53:31 GMT -5
i started my own H2O2 project last weekend. i had bought a Bandai Valkyrie that came with the Takatoku armor on it. item was heavily yellowed near the point of brown. the areas that had the armor on it were still good but any white that was exposed got cooked. anyway i bought some H2O2 from the local beauty supply shop. the highest concentration they had was 12% and the cost was $3.50 for a liter. i dismantled the valk and dropped it in the solution. this is the before picture (before i ran out of batteries.)  |
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Post by cholocarwash on Nov 14, 2009 14:20:52 GMT -5
Well here is the Valk after 6 days in the H2O2 solution. The color difference is amazing. The only drawback i encountered with this project is that the solution does not work as well with colored plastics. The Takatoku armor ended up coming out spotty and uneven. Also there was still signficant fading to the plastic once the yellowing was removed. The uneven color only seems to be on the sun damaged areas. The insides and bottoms that were not aready affected did not experience the same blotchiness. Anyway here's the Valk. i will Post pictures of the armor tommorrow.   |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Apr 2, 2010 22:22:19 GMT -5
Oh my God! That is Awesome! I'll have to try that with my Jet Fire and Drill Spacer wing from the SOC Grendizer... That is really amazing! Thanks for those before and after pics!!!
}D
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Post by droutmaster on Apr 26, 2010 2:10:31 GMT -5
if i use this H2O2 solution, will works with every kind of plastic and is it also necessary that this is under the sun so it can work?. my reason is that i got the MMPR Titanus (the original one first model when it came out in the US)and well it had been expose to the sun by my mistake of not knowing what the rays of the sun can do to a figure T_T. anyway, he has turn yellow over time and i want to return it to its prime color, even if its not a full recovery. i don't care what will happened to the stickers because i hate the bolt thing and im lookignt o get the repro version from the original Titanus from japan.
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Post by zeomare on Apr 26, 2010 2:31:27 GMT -5
hi that is awesome i was wondering, i see it whitens it but does it fade the other colors? it looks like the red and black on the chest area is more faded then the first picture of it in the water.
chris
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