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Post by Mr. Ginrai on Nov 29, 2014 16:00:19 GMT -5
I'd love to try this tool for cutting vinyls, revoltechs, plastics, sonic-welded action-figures, jumbo parts, etc....  www.harborfreight.com/2-in-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html  ....Why am I posting this here? Because I figured this could be useful to help y'all get the customization job done. This is a pretty handy little tool for small craft projects. I wouldn't recommend using this to cut through shotgun shells. And if you read the Customer Reviews for this item you'll see most of the reviews are good except for the idiot who tried to cut his shotgun shell with this tool. He's a Dumbass, to say the least. lol I like the one customer review who advised to apply Lock-Tite to the set screw of the pulley mechanism, and he included a pic: "" The pulleys on the motor and the axle which drives the blade are secured by a hex screw.
Ater about 5 mins of operation, the hex screw securing the pulley for the blade worked its way out
and started making a growl whick destroyed the belt connecting the motor to the blade.
I haven't been able to secure a replacement belt yet.
You can inspect the belt/pulleys by sliding the platic housing on the left side of the unit up.
Recommend you Lock-Tite the set screw for both pulleys which are located under the belt in the toothed surface.
No belt, no workee!!(ancient proverb) pun intended.
Outside of this annoyance it appears to be a decent unit.
Had I the wisdom to prevent this situation, it would be very happy with it.""  zozo-mag I actually have this saw. Mine is a different color but exactly the same. The blade isn't the greatest and it is not super high RPM but for small pieces of wood, thin metal etc. it gets the job done. Some things are too thick (i.e. Tall) to cut with it so they would have to be cut, rotated 180 degrees and then cut from the opposite side. Some stuff you will not fly through, you have to cut a little more slowly. Overall though it cuts clean and accurate and for a hobby bench it was worth the $. Also harbor freight always has a 20% off coupon or a crazy sale so you will never pay retail for this. |
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Post by magengar on Nov 30, 2014 5:03:48 GMT -5
Mr Ginrai, thanks for the review! I haven't bought that cutting tool yet but I will soon. Something like that would come in handy for all sorts of plastic custom toys projects. I often shop at my local Harbor Freight store here in Albany NY... every time I go there I get into a catatonic trance looking at all the eye-candy.  zozo-mag |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 1, 2014 23:44:40 GMT -5
As of 01 December 2014...   }D |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2014 1:43:12 GMT -5
As of 01 December 2014... }D Looking good! Looking good! Thumbs up! |
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Post by magengar on Dec 3, 2014 1:24:23 GMT -5
That looks Oh-So-Toei!!! Something in the back of my head tells me I regret painting the clear canopy on mine. Oh well, whatever. It never came with a pilot anyway. And I'm not about to unglue mine and replace it with a gob of acrylic. zozo-mag |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 4, 2014 0:17:47 GMT -5
Bro, you can always take the paint off easily with Windex if you used acrylic paint. 98% mechanically complete. Finish and Paint soon!   }D |
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Post by magengar on Dec 4, 2014 1:56:09 GMT -5
Bro, you can always take the paint off easily with Windex if you used acrylic paint. 98% mechanically complete. Finish and Paint soon! }D I'll give it a shot. If I remember correctly, I think I used enamel. The Pilder itself isn't painted; but I don't wanna use Thinner otherwise the plastic could melt. Man, THAT is The BEST modification I have ever seen for a MechaColle Mazinger model! You're right, he does look much better with the straight waist, torso, biceps, and thighs. Late edit: I've just noticed you put articulated Gundam hands on him!!! What's the scale size of those hands? Is that a 1/100? or a 1/144? zozo-mag |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 4, 2014 13:17:18 GMT -5
Mag, those are 1/100 scale hands. 99% mechanically complete (need to finish the hands).  A quick comparison to a regular Bandai MC Model Mazinger Z. }D |
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Post by magengar on Dec 5, 2014 1:13:41 GMT -5
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 5, 2014 12:45:36 GMT -5
LOL... Bro, thanks for the confidence, but you give me too much credit! A flying R/C Hover Pileder!!! If I had those mad skills, I would be making a flying R/C Jet Pileder instead! }D |
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Post by magengar on Dec 6, 2014 3:18:43 GMT -5
LOL... Bro, thanks for the confidence, but you give me too much credit! A flying R/C Hover Pileder!!! If I had those mad skills, I would be making a flying R/C Jet Pileder instead! }D Well, That one is Easy: attach bottle-rockets to the Styrofoam hull! zozo-mag |
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Post by B- on Dec 8, 2014 18:11:19 GMT -5
Very cool TMZ looking great!
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Post by magengar on Dec 11, 2014 10:59:07 GMT -5
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 16, 2014 19:51:05 GMT -5
I'm having some issues with the actual shorts armor not fitting properly. Hopefully I can get it resolved soon and finish this custom. }D |
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Post by magengar on Dec 17, 2014 1:37:18 GMT -5
I'm having some issues with the actual shorts armor not fitting properly. Hopefully I can get it resolved soon and finish this custom. }D Uuuuuh- Huh..... lemme guess: shorts hangin half-way off his butt gangsta style, or falling off. My Medicom Maz figure did that for a while until I tied his shorts up with a piece of black thread. Try this: If the shorts are falling off, put some clay inside the shorts... if the shorts stay up snugly, remove the clay and brush a built-up layer of colored Plasti-Dip inside the shorts and let it cure. The color of the Plasti-Dip should match the color of the shorts armor. After the Plasti-Dip has cured, continue fitting the shorts on... if the shorts fall off or feel loose build up another layer of Plasti-Dip and let it cure solid... continue this until the shorts stay up the way they Should stay up. For future reference: you can use either spray-on or brush-on Plasti-Dip to add thickness to a custom toy part. Let the Plasti-Dip cure solid. Thin layers are flexible, and thicker layers will make the Plasti-Dip become more rigid. It has to cure completely for a solid density. Apply the layers when the Plasti-Dip is almost cured solid so the new layer will graft itself into the surface of the previous layer. You can also sand the Plasti-Dip to a smooth matte texture. If you want a thick rigid layer of Plasti-Dip, it must be applied and built up in thin layers so that it will cure completely solid to the core as each new thin layer is applied. Be advised: Plasti-Dip takes about 24 hours to cure solid thin layers. If you apply a dipped thick layer, the outer surface will take much longer to cure solid while the inner density will remain liquid-- similar to the green gooey jelly inside a Stretch Armstrong figure. Just some helpful tips so you'll be ready to work with Plasti-Dip some day. zozo-mag |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 17, 2014 11:44:57 GMT -5
LOL... Funny! I've been using Plasti-Dip since it first came out back in the 90's. I totally hate the spray can Plasti-Dip, but the regular dipping one is great! You may have had a bad batch when you used it and did not dry completely all the way through thou. I've never had any problems with it staying liquid in the inside. You just have to let it dry for a couple of days. As a matter of fact, I lost half a can one time because I didn't seal it correctly, and it dryed up solid! }D |
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Post by magengar on Dec 17, 2014 13:19:43 GMT -5
I love when that stuff dries solid, it makes good battery material for whackin some thumbs. zozo-mag |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 19, 2014 12:02:17 GMT -5
I found an old donor for the pants armor. They fit almost perfectly too!  Now just a few more tweaks, finish customizing the hands, and then the paint job. }D |
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Post by magengar on Dec 20, 2014 3:37:42 GMT -5
Donor? what did you do, strip the calzone off of Shin Maz there and used it as a "Depends" diaper underneath your custom's pants? The custom pants looks a lot better now. zozo-mag |
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 20, 2014 14:19:10 GMT -5
Ha...! They are from a very old vinyl figure that I chopped up almost 20 years ago. Thank God I'm a total hoarder and saved all the unused parts! But I think I'm not going to use it. I'm afraid the friction of the plastic pants will eventually screw up the painted thighs rubbing against the edges. I may just cast the thigh armor in color, so the friction won't matter. But I was so set on using metal for the thigh armor... Oh well, the search continues. }D |
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