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Post by kingdom2000toys on Sept 23, 2013 19:19:55 GMT -5
Armor All works on all types of materials. Rubber & Plastic (hard or soft). On the metal parts, I've been using carnauba wax.
Basically its my car finishing kit. Using all of the same materials on my toys. (Other than uphostery cleaner - although that has worked great for some caked on dusty toys.)
Really, the best thing about all these is that it repels the dust for an extended time while looking great.
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Post by B- on Oct 12, 2013 17:11:51 GMT -5
Good to hear Kindom! Yes carnauba wax is the best.Guys dont use armor all on metal though it leaves crazy oily marks,its fine for other parts though.There is a debate lately over if silicon hurts rubber,ArmorAll has silicon,Ive switched to a rubber protectant I spoke of here.I think its just BS about teh silicon though,ive used armor all on all sorts of rubbers and plastics and its fine.You can even use teh carnauba on plastic.
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ianross
Junior Robot
LEARN. DO. GRIN.
Posts: 36
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Post by ianross on Nov 13, 2013 0:42:55 GMT -5
all good tips here!
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Post by B- on Dec 30, 2013 18:09:22 GMT -5
Hey kids..well I finally got a GX-01 today hahaha,Ive had the GX-01R and 01R+ for a years now,but I thought Id see what the first SOC was like.Not bad until DUN DUN DUNNNNN!!! Sticky fists,pileder,Scrander body wing etc. So it reminds me of many a posts about sticky sweaty rubber parts from tacky painted rubber parts,Ankoku Daishogun horns etc comes to mind as of recent and a couple other SOC robot fists/hands that I cant recall.Well I finally found a solution! and it REALLY works!...CLEAR ACRYLIC TAMIYA PAINT! or similar brands. All you do is wash the part with mild soap,air dry,{do not towel dry as youll get fuzz zstuck to these already sticky parts},and get a good paint brush and paint one light coat over the fist or part you need,air dry again and thats it!! works PERFECT!! all my tacky rubber hands are no more!! and it does nothing to change the sheen of the part,keeps them nice and shiny.i suggest doing this to any sticky part or pileder!
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Dec 30, 2013 18:14:31 GMT -5
Cool! Did you paint the Aoshima Shin Ankoku Daishogun's horns and other sticky parts with it? I need to do something about that figure!!! }D
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Post by B- on Dec 30, 2013 19:22:06 GMT -5
Yes did the horns just now!,no probs!,perfect now.,use a bigger brush as the clear dries relatively fast,so dont go over the same spot while you are painting it,and a bigger brush covers faster.Little brush for little parts,bigger brush for bigger parts.just nice even strokes next to each other,dont use a cheap brush guys!
BTW some brands have a flat and a shiny clear,I just stick to the Tamiya it has a good shine to it.
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Post by greengetterguy on Dec 30, 2013 20:21:52 GMT -5
Good one baron.
That will seal in the nasty leeching PVC chemicals. Acrylic is 1000times safer for your health then sticky lead PVC parts.
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Post by Gold on Dec 30, 2013 21:02:13 GMT -5
Oh wow. Nice share Baron! That sticky residue on our figures is one of the biggest annoyances for me in this hobby. Gold
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Post by B- on Dec 30, 2013 21:38:35 GMT -5
My pleasure guys!
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Post by Yumcha on Dec 31, 2013 3:36:59 GMT -5
Great tip!
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Post by ancestral on Dec 31, 2013 11:08:29 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip Baron!
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Post by ninjahandz on Dec 31, 2013 11:17:13 GMT -5
Now I need to take a week off from my job to open all my toys one by one and paint them...
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Post by B- on Dec 31, 2013 11:42:33 GMT -5
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Post by pryzmm on Jan 3, 2014 10:22:23 GMT -5
another tip fella's if you have this "see below" at home lying around under your cupboard you're in luck, it has the same coating properties as the tamiya, im using this for all my gundam final coating, it is self leveling so you can use a paint brush & you don't need to thin it, apply straight from the bottle or one of this ... its from pledge
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Post by mpchi on Jan 3, 2014 12:53:41 GMT -5
Good tips guys. Have any of these been tested with time? Like have you been using these for a couple years or so? I realized those rubber stickiness tends to form very slowly (sometimes takes months of display or sitting in box). They sometimes get so bad that I am on the verge of throwing some of the stuff away. Curious if these acrylic coating products can seal them good without having the stickiness return after a year or two.
A couple of my Revoltechs and Kubricks got pretty bad, as well as a few random small figures and accessories.
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jan 3, 2014 23:16:06 GMT -5
another tip fella's if you have this "see below" at home lying around under your cupboard you're in luck, it has the same coating properties as the tamiya, im using this for all my gundam final coating, it is self leveling so you can use a paint brush & you don't need to thin it, apply straight from the bottle or one of this ... its from pledge Is this pretty permanent, or do you have to re-coat it sometimes if you happen to handle the figures/models a lot? }D
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Post by B- on Jan 3, 2014 23:36:53 GMT -5
Its not for handling figures alot,Its just clear wax,you can scrape it off,so its not really permanent.I used to use it to give life to the eyes on my 1/6 human figures.If you plan on posing the figure alot,yes you will need to recoat it.For display its fine doing it once.So TMZ dont bother using it on say your SRCs as you handle those alot,but on those that just sit there,or more expensive pieces you dont handle alot its perfect.Like he said great for models,as they are meant for display.It really works for what it does do.
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Post by pryzmm on Jan 4, 2014 3:00:06 GMT -5
i have to disagree on the "you can scrape it off", well depending on what you're gonna use on scraping if we are talking sharp metal object, even the tamiya & the original paint wont help, although i had to admit that i have not use it for die-cast parts let alone soc or similar metal surface, i have used it for many bandai model kits, resin & similar material's, beside only the plastic or rubber parts get this tacky, sticky feel. the "future" i mentioned above is acrylic base & ofcourse it has a bonding properties as well that when fully dried it wont be scrape off if you just use your finger nail although gundam kits/ model will not have the same roughness we apply to chogokin's when playing or posing it, i have not seen ugly scraping or peel off in all of my mg gundams so far & im flexing them from time to time too if you are serious about using those future & want to know more: -->> hit me <<-- @ themaz ->> depending on how thick you want your surface finish to be, 2 coats after the 1st one is fully dry will suffice, most of my models are done similarly (2-4 yrs ago) all good
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Post by B- on Jan 4, 2014 21:36:10 GMT -5
What TMZ is asking about is on diecast parts not rubber,so yes teh future polish will scrape off,if coated on thickly.You dont repose Gundam kits,SRCs are reposed alot,so when handling you may scrape the coating off with your nail on dicast parts.Especially if you used several coats.
Ive used the product before.I lay it on thick,but that was on 1/6 figures.The tamiya clearcoat is to retard the stickyness,it seeps into the rubber,so its not like painting it at all.So no it wont scrape off,probably the future would work similarly on it,I agree on that.But TMZ is asking about diecast coating the SRCs,if using several coats it will come off easily.Use a regular carnauba wax for diecast parts,I do regularly.
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Post by TheMazingerZ on Jan 4, 2014 23:41:45 GMT -5
Thanks guys! I was planning to use it on the new Aoshima Shin Mazinger Ankoku Daishogun's horns and other sticky parts. I have been lucky so far and I don't recall any of my other figures being sticky, other than the Yujin GaoGaiGars gold parts. Anything that really works to get rid of the stickiness and lasts long is good with me. }D
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