|
|
Post by ancer on Apr 9, 2015 7:31:46 GMT -5
bought the rubber protectant off Amazon and applied it. Battle Fever J is now better figure for it. Also used it on an SHF Piccolo - the outfit had a white residue. So far so good.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Ginrai on Apr 9, 2015 7:42:27 GMT -5
bought the rubber protectant off Amazon and applied it. Battle Fever J is now better figure for it. Also used it on an SHF Piccolo - the outfit had a white residue. So far so good. Did you put it on the neck joint? |
|
|
|
Post by B- on Apr 9, 2015 9:27:26 GMT -5
I wish they'd reissue the GX-06 set... Remember also Poseidon has rubber treads from getter Robo G set..Also note how the Getter Bear treads cracked in the position where its folded over at each end,ROTATE teh treads every so often to eliminate stress on those ends..as with all treads similar{Combattler,Voltes,Poseidon etc etc} |
|
|
|
Post by ancer on Apr 9, 2015 15:07:34 GMT -5
bought the rubber protectant off Amazon and applied it. Battle Fever J is now better figure for it. Also used it on an SHF Piccolo - the outfit had a white residue. So far so good. Did you put it on the neck joint? Yes , i had missed it initially. I realized it after reposing the figure. i haven't completed going thru all my stuff but I did get to all the SOC/SRC stuff. need to check the GD series of figures. |
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Ginrai on Apr 9, 2015 19:23:45 GMT -5
Did you put it on the neck joint? Yes , i had missed it initially. I realized it after reposing the figure. i haven't completed going thru all my stuff but I did get to all the SOC/SRC stuff. need to check the GD series of figures. Wait so where else did you put it? I thought the neck was the only spot on him? |
|
|
|
Post by Mechanical Flesh on Apr 19, 2015 11:07:53 GMT -5
We haven't mentioned the CM's Jeeg yet, right guys?
I found out just today, while I was reading a review of the Brave Gokin 38 Accesory Pack for Jeeg: the yellow treads on the Earth Parts' leg section are painted rubber. I thought it was plastic, because of the color, but apparently it's just painted rubber.
|
|
|
|
Post by B- on Apr 19, 2015 17:53:49 GMT -5
Did mine on jeeg two days ago
|
|
|
|
Post by gravewolf on Apr 21, 2015 6:39:40 GMT -5
I wonder if the silicon oil I applied on voltes rubber threads are sufficient enough to protect it. Still can't understand why companies use rubber on some parts since everyone knows they will deteriorate faster. I'm even more worried over my ht robocop as it has a rubber tube that covers the arm and leg joints.
|
|
|
|
Post by B- on Apr 22, 2015 11:45:39 GMT -5
I wonder if the silicon oil I applied on voltes rubber threads are sufficient enough to protect it. Still can't understand why companies use rubber on some parts since everyone knows they will deteriorate faster. I'm even more worried over my ht robocop as it has a rubber tube that covers the arm and leg joints. Thing Im not totally sure of is..Is it the quality of the rubber?the thickness??Because there are PLENTY of car tires out there older than 3 years and they are not deteriorating like these toys rubber are!! Opinions? |
|
|
|
Post by gravewolf on Apr 23, 2015 2:51:14 GMT -5
I wonder if the silicon oil I applied on voltes rubber threads are sufficient enough to protect it. Still can't understand why companies use rubber on some parts since everyone knows they will deteriorate faster. I'm even more worried over my ht robocop as it has a rubber tube that covers the arm and leg joints. Thing Im not totally sure of is..Is it the quality of the rubber?the thickness??Because there are PLENTY of car tires out there older than 3 years and they are not deteriorating like these toys rubber are!! Opinions? I'm thinking they are using bad quality rubber. I've been using some rubber hoses for my gasoline torch and they are holding up well for many years. My brothers die-cast cars have rubber tires and they've been holding up really well for more than a decade. Since all these toys are being made in China there's also the possibility that the rubber supplier might not be giving the toy manufacturer good rubber material. There's been too many incidents of suppliers in China sending out sub par quality raw materials and it even happens with food like the rotten ground beef incident and melanin in milk. |
|
|
|
Post by gravewolf on Apr 27, 2015 8:30:50 GMT -5
Can't find the stuff that Chachi recommended but I found this in a car supply store and I'll try it out with the rubber parts on my figures. It specifically says it will protect rubber from cracking and it's a non stick formula so I hope it works.   |
|
|
|
Post by B- on Apr 27, 2015 9:41:54 GMT -5
Can't find the stuff that Chachi recommended but I found this in a car supply store and I'll try it out with the rubber parts on my figures. It specifically says it will protect rubber from cracking and it's a non stick formula so I hope it works. actually I recommended it Chachi made a video on it...you have to get it on Amazon |
|
|
|
Post by gravewolf on Apr 27, 2015 9:55:33 GMT -5
Lol, sorry if I missed that. Don't have a credit card so I have to find one locally. If this works then my rubber degradation problem will be temporarily solved lol, since we all know that rubber doesn't last no matter how well we take care of it. I just want it to last more than a decade.
|
|
|
|
Post by cmal on Apr 29, 2015 7:42:28 GMT -5
Anyone have any ideas how often our robot rubber should be treated with this stuff?
|
|
|
|
Post by gravewolf on Apr 29, 2015 13:48:59 GMT -5
Anyone have any ideas how often our robot rubber should be treated with this stuff? Depends on the product. The one I'm using says it only need to be applied once and it will last a year and that's for tires. Considering we only display our figures I figure once in a year is good enough, too much might also be bad. |
|
|
|
Post by faelon on May 6, 2015 18:04:34 GMT -5
There is one paint that will closely approximate vac metal chrome, or perfectly mimic a whole host of metals. It's called Alclad II. This is not "spray can" stuff however. It requires an airbrush and. High degree of skill. You must use their special primer. And special care must be taken in cleaning the surface before application. The paint is so thin that fingerprints will be effectively chromed onto the model. This is a really nasty lacquer paint as well so you need to take all kinds of precautions when spraying it. Breathing in is bad and can be combustible in an enclosed space. alclad2.comThe stuff is $8-$12 per bottle both for the paint and the primer. I've never used it on a gokin so I can't vouchsafe how well it wears with that degree of handling. But for what I have used it on it seems extremely durable and resistantant to scratching, chipping etc. edit. One other option for those looking to re chrome something. Modelers use a product called "Bare Metal Foil". As it says It's basically layering an actual film of chrome over the part. In much the same way they apply gold leaf. It looks absolutely fantastic. The only drawbacks are you really can't do overly complex things like a Transformers guns. Swords, trim pieces, those Grimlock feet would all work well. I would only use it for a piece intended for display, as it isn't robust enough for toy use. It's also quite expensive. www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html |
|
|
|
Post by faelon on May 22, 2015 20:20:51 GMT -5
Thanks. This is a great useful tip. I have a GX-08MA with an incredibly sticky head. I had not thought to use Future on the head itself. I use it all the time on other repairs. Never thought to try it on soft parts.
For those not aware Future floor polish, Pledge with Future Shine and even the Tamiya Acrylic Clear Coat is all the same thing. Liquid Acrylic. Basically the clear base that they use to make Acrylic Paint from. It is especially useful for repairing and restoring clear plastic parts. Dip the part in Future, let it air dry and it removes any fogging, repairs minor scuffs and scratches and makes the plastic part look like real glass.
A few gotchas in using it. It works perfectly on most clear plastics, which are typically polycarbonates. It bonds to them. Using it on substances that are impervious to bonding, such as ABS plastics or die cast metal may result in a finish that wears off. Also be careful in selecting a clear coat to use on soft rubber parts. It has to be acrylic. If you accidentally use an enamel based clear coat you will badly damage the rubber, and it will never dry.
edit, oh and Baron Weirwulf, while I am not sure if the Tamiya spray clear coat is acrylic, if you have access to an airbrush you can just spray the bottled stuff straight. No mixing or thinking needed. Take the Future straight from the bottle and go. It sprays beautifully.
|
|
|
|
Post by S_Gokin on Nov 11, 2015 10:28:45 GMT -5
hello guys i have a question
my friend told me to use Windex (Glass cleaner) to clean the figures just put some on the a microfiber cloth and clean it with it
is this method safe ?
|
|
|
|
Post by faelon on Nov 11, 2015 10:31:59 GMT -5
hello guys i have a question my friend told me to use Windex (Glass cleaner) to clean the figures just put some on the a microfiber cloth and clean it with it is this method safe ? For the most part. Just make sure you are using the type without amonia |
|
|
|
Post by Mr. Ginrai on Nov 11, 2015 10:50:26 GMT -5
That type of window cleaner with no ammonia is usually clear and sold at auto parts/detailing stores because that kind is safe for use on tinted car windows.
It will come in a spray bottle just like windex. It will indicate right on the bottle (usually the back) if it is the kind with no ammonia. Should be very easy to find and runs $3-5 for a large bottle.
Never used it on toys though.
|
|
