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Post by boma83 on Aug 20, 2013 19:48:29 GMT -5
this is sick! and you usse google sketchup?! i salute you
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 20, 2013 20:34:41 GMT -5
this is sick! and you usse google sketchup?! i salute you Thanks man! I use Sketchup... with about a hundred plugins.  |
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 20, 2013 21:06:49 GMT -5
Are you talking behind the kneecap? So like the piece that connects the thigh to the ankle? I would love to have piston parts, but not sure how do-able it would be... Size will be roughly 8.75 inches (21.5 cm) from feet to top of head, and roughly 9.5 inches (24 cm) from feet to tip of wing. yes, it needs something to complete it. It might have to wait for a future TZ MK2 version. Lately I've been trying to work out how you make spring-loaded weapons, and pistons might fit into that category as well. I think the problem I would have with pistons at this point is that they would be relatively small and tough to 3D print without them warping. Casting could be a little hard two because the piston would have to be able to fit into the sheath part without falling out. I'll think about it though and see what I can come up with. |
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Post by magengar on Aug 21, 2013 3:07:25 GMT -5
I've always had my doubts about Sketch-Up, but now that there are plugins for it to make organic model renders I'll give it a shot again. Thanks!  zozo-mag Did you use Google Sketch-Up to model that 3D version? By the way it looks in those renderings, it reminds me of the way Google Sketch-Up uses flat-shade colors on objects. zozo-mag You got it! I'm a Google Sketchup freak. Especially for robots and hard geometry. I really like it because it's fast and easy. Sketchup has actually made a lot of headway into organic modelling also. In the last year or there is now a plugin called Artisan that works on the same basic principles as standard organic modellers. |
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Post by mojacko on Aug 21, 2013 14:58:42 GMT -5
I've always had my doubts about Sketch-Up, but now that there are plugins for it to make organic model renders I'll give it a shot again. Thanks! zozo-mag You got it! I'm a Google Sketchup freak. Especially for robots and hard geometry. I really like it because it's fast and easy. Sketchup has actually made a lot of headway into organic modelling also. In the last year or there is now a plugin called Artisan that works on the same basic principles as standard organic modellers. SketchUp is an awesome 3d software best of all its a free program.....too bad my laptop cant handle it no more..... |
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 21, 2013 15:21:57 GMT -5
Most of the best plugins are free also. The tough part is that there are a lot plugins, and a lot of them are too specialized for specific tasks to be of any use to the general user.
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Post by magengar on Aug 22, 2013 1:26:27 GMT -5
I looked up the Artisan plugin... artisan4sketchup.com/Looks like I'll have to buy it's previous version to get the free upgrade. .......schmbluuuuuuuuuugh. lol zozo-mag |
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 23, 2013 1:19:08 GMT -5
Artisan is great for 3d printing. But it's not an animation quality plugin only because it's smoothing algorithm doesn't always make a completely consistent mesh. If you are considering buying it, you can try it for free for fifteen days, and I would recommend you watch the videos of the guy who built the light cycle just so you get an idea of how it works. The tutorial videos are fine but it really helps to see somebody actually make something instead of just watching a guy explain how the tools work on a cube.
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 27, 2013 22:27:32 GMT -5
Here are some pics of my gray/silver resin casts (black pieces will come soon), but I can't decide whether I should be using the silver powder finish that you see in some of these pics. It leaves a fairly metal look, but it's very raw and often splotchy or weathered looking, sort of like raw pewter figures. It can't be buffed or smoothed out because it's only a surface finishing powder and sanding reveals the plastic underneath. On the other hand the regular resin looks smooth and very plastic. I'm going to paint the major details but wasn't planning on painting the whole surface of every piece. Which do you guys like more?  SILVER COAT  RESIN  SILVER COAT  RESIN  SILVER COAT  RESIN  |
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Post by magengar on Aug 28, 2013 0:18:59 GMT -5
WOW!!! I'm so blown-away to see those parts now in Solid-Object form, they look so perfectly cast! I can't decide which I like better... I like the silver layer cast, for projects where I need silver limb parts (ie: a custom Mazinger figure)... that way I'll already have parts made in silver while I manually paint the other parts in different colors. But, I also like the raw plastic cast parts... because I love the challenge of painting all the parts to suit my taste. It's a win-win situation either way. As long as you get good quality castings from either material, you'll get good quality finished results.  Great job there, bro; can't wait to see the whole thing finished! zozo-mag |
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Post by droutmaster on Aug 28, 2013 0:53:23 GMT -5
that is awesome. i think it would look great either way. my only issue with the silver coat is that you see the straight lines when the mold was made while the resin gives it a nice clean look. on the other hand the silver coat truly gives it in a sense like a weathering effect making look like is actually made of metal while the resin looks literally plastic.
it would be interesting to see a mix of the 2. But either way you make it, its gonna look sweet.
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Post by boma83 on Aug 28, 2013 0:59:33 GMT -5
wow man where did you print it? thats very detail compare with UP 3D print. could you PM me about the price you print? thx alot
i like the resin version, theres no layer on it, you can go with resin primer.
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Post by magengar on Aug 28, 2013 6:08:06 GMT -5
I don't know, but I have a feeling this will probably be the first original model robot toy made from scratch we've Ever seen here in the history of Robot-Japan! I don't know if something like this has ever happened here at RJ before... ...if Not, then THIS would be a First! zozo-mag |
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 28, 2013 11:07:59 GMT -5
wow man where did you print it? thats very detail compare with UP 3D print. could you PM me about the price you print? thx alot i like the resin version, theres no layer on it, you can go with resin primer. I print all my stuff through Ponoko.com using an Objet printed material called "superfine white". But I should tell you that this material is expensive compared to the standard SLS white plastic you see most stuff printed in. Also keep in mind that I sand every piece before I make the silicone mold. This material sands perfectly. It has sort of a crusty texture when you get it, but it captures all the detail underneath this semi rough exterior so that when you sand it, it comes out perfectly, and it sands easy. |
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 28, 2013 11:23:45 GMT -5
WOW!!! I'm so blown-away to see those parts now in Solid-Object form, they look so perfectly cast! I can't decide which I like better... I like the silver layer cast, for projects where I need silver limb parts (ie: a custom Mazinger figure)... that way I'll already have parts made in silver while I manually paint the other parts in different colors. But, I also like the raw plastic cast parts... because I love the challenge of painting all the parts to suit my taste. It's a win-win situation either way. As long as you get good quality castings from either material, you'll get good quality finished results. Great job there, bro; can't wait to see the whole thing finished! zozo-mag Thanks man. There are good and bad for both. The silver color looks better as far as color goes, but the plastic looks nice and smooth. I'm trying to avoid painting every piece and the silver powder coat is an easy pre-cast process. I'm going to try using this in conjunction with silver paint for touch ups and see how it turns out. |
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 28, 2013 11:28:01 GMT -5
that is awesome. i think it would look great either way. my only issue with the silver coat is that you see the straight lines when the mold was made while the resin gives it a nice clean look. on the other hand the silver coat truly gives it in a sense like a weathering effect making look like is actually made of metal while the resin looks literally plastic. it would be interesting to see a mix of the 2. But either way you make it, its gonna look sweet. I am going to try a mix of the two for certain parts. You are right about seeing the mold lines when using the silver coat. The resin allows for easy post process sanding to get rid of those lines, but with the silver you can't really do that... BUT I haven't tried using silver paint for touch up yet, which might solve the problem as long as the paint matches the tone and shade of the powder coating. |
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Post by droutmaster on Aug 28, 2013 14:36:01 GMT -5
that is awesome. i think it would look great either way. my only issue with the silver coat is that you see the straight lines when the mold was made while the resin gives it a nice clean look. on the other hand the silver coat truly gives it in a sense like a weathering effect making look like is actually made of metal while the resin looks literally plastic. it would be interesting to see a mix of the 2. But either way you make it, its gonna look sweet. I am going to try a mix of the two for certain parts. You are right about seeing the mold lines when using the silver coat. The resin allows for easy post process sanding to get rid of those lines, but with the silver you can't really do that... BUT I haven't tried using silver paint for touch up yet, which might solve the problem as long as the paint matches the tone and shade of the powder coating. but if you do the touch ups on the silver parts to fix it then your actually better off painting them than printing them just to save time and resources. so i guess for this resin is the best choice. |
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Post by magengar on Aug 28, 2013 14:43:18 GMT -5
For complex objects like these, it's difficult
to get a seamless casting.
So, yes, the resin gives you the advantage of removing
the mold seam lines away, while at the same time
preparing the resin surface of the object so that the
paint will adhere to it.
Are you going to cast all of the parts, and assemble them
before painting so that you can test the articulation?
In this case, resin would be best.
zozo-mag
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 28, 2013 15:24:09 GMT -5
I am going to try a mix of the two for certain parts. You are right about seeing the mold lines when using the silver coat. The resin allows for easy post process sanding to get rid of those lines, but with the silver you can't really do that... BUT I haven't tried using silver paint for touch up yet, which might solve the problem as long as the paint matches the tone and shade of the powder coating. but if you do the touch ups on the silver parts to fix it then your actually better off painting them than printing them just to save time and resources. so i guess for this resin is the best choice. Well, touch ups aren't as time consuming. With touch ups you can just smooth the ridges down, paint that area, and then use the acrylic coat to hold everything in place (which I use anyway), whereas if you paint the entire piece you have to apply primer and then about three coats so that the paint doesn't get clumpy. |
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Post by xiombarg on Aug 28, 2013 15:40:08 GMT -5
I am going to try a mix of the two for certain parts. You are right about seeing the mold lines when using the silver coat. The resin allows for easy post process sanding to get rid of those lines, but with the silver you can't really do that... BUT I haven't tried using silver paint for touch up yet, which might solve the problem as long as the paint matches the tone and shade of the powder coating. but if you do the touch ups on the silver parts to fix it then your actually better off painting them than printing them just to save time and resources. so i guess for this resin is the best choice. I just re-read your post and maybe I should clarify that both the silver coated resin and the regular resin are resin casts of the same 3D printed part. The silver powder brings out the texture of the printed part, even when sanded, because the silver is so glossy, whereas the un-coated resin is very flat and so the texture looks very smooth. I only use a single 3D printed part for each single piece and then make my mold and resin cast to make multiples. It's incomparably cheaper to resin cast pieces than it is to 3D print, so I only 3D print one of each piece. |
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